Massive sub pumps or cut into return line for skimmer?

[Hustler]

there are no elbows on the system other that what is supplied on the twisted attachments, the elbows are all on the drain side. Ill see if i can post a video of the flow perhaps to try and better explain... its not the baffles that will slow it down in this case its the 9000+GPH trying to run through them lol its just too much in my sump....
guys in the states are running this skimmer with dual mag 18s no problem and the guy who built it for me said on friday it could run on a number of diffrent pumps this one was way overkill and i thought i could make it work... i was wrong...
Im trying to come up with a diffrent solution now as the inline pumps are not an option unless i buy a 230 gallon for a sump...
my sump width is 16 3/4 inches

[Hustler]

if i tap into the return lines with dual T's one on each and swap my 3800 for the 5800 i should have more than enough flow for both as the 3800 is currently rushing the water an inch over the baffles anyways.... I just dont want the added T's to burn the pump out. I have flex line going to the skimmer so it will be a straight shot other than the T itself...

[StirCrazy]

first of all that is an insain sized pump for a skimmer that isn't a recirulating skimmer. do you have some more info on the skimmer? it might be possible to turn it into a recirc style then just have a nice 300 gal per hour feed it.

going of your overflow mostlikely won't help as you would probably need a 2" or bigger overflow to handle it.

as for elbows on the intake.. thats all fine as long as it is all sized properly.

Steve

[Hustler]

http://www.bashsea.com/index.php/pro...wisted-skimmer

Im all for making sure i get it the flow it needs.... but i have to tame my sump flow down already and i am trying to find a 2 bird with 1 stone scenario

[Hustler]

right now i have the skimmer being fed from one of my overflow lines direct and its almost working... but after 48 hrs theres no green i figure its not enough?

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Hustler

right now i have the skimmer being fed from one of my overflow lines direct and its almost working... but after 48 hrs theres no green i figure its not enough?

ok it is beckett skimmer.. do you have a Mak4 pump? that should blast it. what brand is the pump that they sent with it? that is way way overkill for a beckett. what you want is about 1200gph on a pressure rated pump. the ones I built I started running of a mag 12, then later switched to a Mak4. I ran mine out of a 33 gal sump also, so only 1/3 of the sump was my skimmer draw area, then I returned the water to the first chamber of the sump. the best bet would be to find friends with spair pumps and get them to let you try out the pumps with it and see what you can find that works.

Steve

[Myka]

Oh I see now...sorry, didn't look close enough the first time. The line with the ball valve is the return from the pump to the sump. So where's the skimmer pump and the intake then? Is that pump the pump that is manufacturer suggested to use?

The baffles aren't to slow the water down. The baffles are simply to filter out the microbubbles. If microbubbles get to the return pump the pump will chop them up even more and send them up to the display which is ugly and irritates corals.

Steve, it's a Beckett skimmer IIRC, that's why such a big pump.

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Myka

The baffles aren't to slow the water down. The baffles are simply to filter out the microbubbles. .

Myka, they do that by slowing the water down and smoothing out the flow, so the bubbles have time to rise to the top and pop. the exact purpose of baffles are either to controle water hight, or to slow down the movement of water enough to reduce turbulance and make it easier for bubble to leave the water stream.

Steve

[Myka]

Hustler, is there a PDF for this skimmer somewhere? I don't see much info on the website, like pump specs or anything. Did the pump come with it, or did you choose a pump for it separately?

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

Myka, they do that by slowing the water down and smoothing out the flow, so the bubbles have time to rise to the top and pop. the exact purpose of baffles are either to controle water hight, or to slow down the movement of water enough to reduce turbulance and make it easier for bubble to leave the water stream.

Steve

Steve, baffles don't slow the water down, unless you consider the linear compression as slowing it down. 9000 gph is 9000 gph, the only way to slow that down is to make less flow. Baffles work by forcing the water into a shallow shape...it takes less time for bubbles to rise 1" than to rise 10".

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Myka

Steve, baffles don't slow the water down, unless you consider the linear compression as slowing it down. 9000 gph is 9000 gph, the only way to slow that down is to make less flow. Baffles work by forcing the water into a shallow shape...it takes less time for bubbles to rise 1" than to rise 10".

they do slow it down.. in most cases the actual baggle part of your sump will not allow the bubbles to be released, large ones maybe but not the micro bubbles. and I'll explain why with an example of the sump I built for my last tank.

I use 3 chambers the first is where everything is dumpped, so the water hits the first set of baffles. so now I am taking a large boddy of water with low flow, and forcing into a small body with high flow (throught the baffles) then it opens to another large area so we have a high velocity lamaner flow of water dumping into a large area. this auses the velocity of the water to slow right down, and it is here where you should get your bubbles released. I could go into Pressure changes befor, during and after the baffels but as long as we understand that the water does slow down after it leaves the baffels and dumps into a larger area then were good. my third chamber was just for the pump suctions so all my last set of baffles did was maintan the hight of the water in the middle chamber