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#1
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![]() Salinity isn't perhaps as critical, but it's still important. You've got lots of life on and in the rock that is used to 1.026, so that slight increase coupled with ammonia could kill things off, leading to further NH3 levels.
To drop it, simply add freshwater (chlorine removed). As for water changes, when I'm curing rock, I perform water changes often.
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Brad |
#2
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![]() Thanks. I'll do a water change to bring it down.
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#3
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![]() I would bring the salinity down a little via water changes as Aquattro suggested but I would also add in an ammonia neutralizer.
What are you checking your salinity with? The plastic salinity checkers are notoriously off, sometimes up to 0.003. |
#4
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![]() I am using a plastic hydrometer for now. I figured that it would be ok until the cycle is done and I start putting corals and fish in and it needs to be more precise. I changed some of the water and now get a reading of 1.025.
As I am just staring the cycle should I not want the ammonia to be there? |
#5
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![]() mine was off .006 when i first started in the hobby but at least the numbers were easier to read than the refractometer :P
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![]() - 33 Gal - 20Gal Sump, MP10/Hydor Powerheads, Aquaticlife 4x T-5HO, Vertex IN100, TLF w/Biopellets, Tunze ATO -45GAL Build in Progress!- |
#6
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![]() I would be more comfortable cycling at 1.020 than 1.028.
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#7
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![]() +1
lower salinity seems to be safer than higher |
#8
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![]() agreed here as well ![]() ![]()
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#9
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![]() Why? Personally, I use 1.026, which is where my tank sits day to day...
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Brad |
#10
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![]() Quote:
ive just always heard that a tank cycles faster with a slightly lower salt 1.020-1.022 and a slightly lower temp 76-78 then raise it up after a week or so. not sure if its true about being faster or the exact science behind it but i would rather be lower than higher if i had to choose.
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