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#1
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If you do use Chemiclean or a similar product, there is a little caveat, you have to shut your skimmer and carbon down while treating. Just something to keep in mind, especially if you have a high bioload in your tank. I have used it in the past and here's my thinking, you have to do a large waterchange at the end of the Chemiclean treatment anyway so why not just do the large water change to vacuum the gravel and siphon the Cyano off the rocks without adding the chemical at all. Even after the treatment it takes a few days to be able to run the skimmer, all together you're looking at about 2 days without carbon and 4 to five days without a skimmer, and all the while nutrients are building up in your tank, which is what caused the outbreak in the first place. |
#2
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![]() Very rarely does cyanobacteria run rampant in aquariums with ample organisms utilizing the available light. If you are running an aquarium with few corals and are finding you are getting repeat algae and cyanobacteria problems, consider toying with your photoperiod or increasing your coral load as a long-term remedy. Excess light (note: did not say HIGH light) in combination with nutrient issues will cause algae (and often cyano) problems.
medhatreefguy did make a point I forgot, which is to change your bulbs if they are old... as this will help too ![]() |
#3
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![]() Interesting this is the first time I have heard this. So just for the sake of argument how does having more coral reduce available light? Do you mean coral that will grow and shade the bottom of the tank somehow? Or that coral are somehow soaking up the energy that radiates around them?
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#4
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![]() Haha, I didn't say corals reduce the available light? Its just an observation I have had. Not to say that the amount of light in the aquarium and the population of corals has a direct effect on cyanobacteria, but there seems to be a relation. My theory is that corals use light and nutrients, both of which cyanobacteria and algaes also use, therefore if you have a healthy coral population they should out compete the algae for its resources. Similar to a refugium where "good" algae out competes the "bad" algae.
Some corals are better at it than others, too. I usually will throw in a few healthy meaty leathers, some colts, green star and lots of mushrooms as my base corals used primarily to soak up nutrients (and hey- they look good too!). Keep a shallow sand bed, lots of flow to keep the rock clean + a good aquascape allowing for movement behind the structure. Some good cleaners help too (sand starfish, lawnmower blenny, strawberry top hats, etc). Feed minimally, have a good skimmer and use filter floss. Run lights on the low side, bumping up slowly. Change bulbs when they are old. If you still get cyanobacteria popping up (it does still happen, persistent little living fossil) dose with chemicals. However, in the last year or so since we have figured out this balancing act, we have rarely used the stuff. I wish there was a formula for it, that way I could describe it better. But unfortunately each tank is different and thus each way to approach the situation will be different. HTH -Diana |
#5
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![]() I'm having the same problem in my tank also. I chalked it up to my RO/DI filters which I changed a couple of days ago and my lights which I'll change Thursday when I make it into Red Coral to buy new ones. In the mean time I've been sucking as much as I can out manually. Water change on the way as well.
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#6
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Thanks for the explanation. |
#7
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![]() i got mine from h2ocean salt-stopped using it and it went away-sand sifting gobies help or a sand sifting star-needs some movement over the sand
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