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#1
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![]() I'm not sure how sensitive the Hanna Checker is compared to the D-D Merck kit, but even people using Zeovit rarely get down to 0.00 ppm phosphate using the Merck kit. Getting to 0.08 ppm is doing quite well. Keep in mind that if you have any algae growing in the tank the true phosphate level will be higher as the algae are sucking it out of the water column as it grows. Sometimes, but not always you can get a higher phosphate reading if you test in the morning before the lights come on. You're doing everything right regarding phosphate.
As far as Zeovit goes, have you joined the Zeovit forums yet? Which Zeovit products are you using? I would suggest you just use the Zeolites, Bak, Food, and Start to begin with. Don't start using any of the other additives until you have removed your tank of every little bit of algae. Absolutely do not follow the directions on the bottles when it come to the other additives. I was using 1/4 what the bottles said and got the best results that way. I was not able to dose Iron or B-Balance without getting algae blooms. If you get diatoms or cyano when you start the additives you're dosing too many additives. |
#2
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![]() All I know is I bought a hanna checker and got 0.00 and tested 3 times. It was a while ago though.....and I know I must have some...but its low.
The hanna p04 checker is +/- .04ppm accuracy. Really not that good considering most people recommend PO4 to be less than .03ppm. |
#3
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![]() plus remember the test kits we can afford only measure inorganic phosphate not organic phosphate. so it is quite possible to get 0 phosphate readings but still have phosphate.
as for the rest I agree with Myka 100% Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#4
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![]() Are you guys saying I have a nutrient problem?
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#5
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![]() haha, mexican turbo snails will mow down the cotton candy in no time. I had it in plague proportions and they took care of it with in a week.
Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#6
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![]() Yup. If your tank has nuisance algae anywhere...then ya. If you can grow chaeto like no tomorrow...then ya.
Diatoms are essentially the warning flag of problems that are going to arise if something isn't done. If you see diatoms, replace GFO and look at nitrate/phosphate levels and sources. You know the saying, "Fart is [poop]'s warning call." ![]() Last edited by Myka; 09-21-2011 at 01:49 AM. |
#7
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#8
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![]() Quote:
Thanks for all the replies guys/gals.
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-Murdoch 160 gallon Reef, almost all SPS, a few LPS, small handfull of Zoas, and 5 clams. LOVING the upgrade (now that most of the work is done!) My tank Journal: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=75924 |
#9
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![]() Quote:
That reminds me...I should hook up that reactor again. I found it preferred to dose the basic 4 at full dose. |
#10
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![]() Quote:
So you're saying that I should run the bak/start/food at full recommended dose? What's the 4th? Zeolites?
__________________
-Murdoch 160 gallon Reef, almost all SPS, a few LPS, small handfull of Zoas, and 5 clams. LOVING the upgrade (now that most of the work is done!) My tank Journal: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=75924 |