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Old 09-17-2011, 11:45 PM
ALang ALang is offline
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Welcome to canreef!
Looks like you have tons of great advise to digest already, so no need for me to add any. There are already a couple of "newbies" just starting up, so read their posts as well.

300 gal plus sump, wow, you're off to a great start already. We only wish our tanks were that large. I can just imagine what I can do with 300gal, and HOW MUCH I can personally blow on my credit cards

Good luck.
Lenny.
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Old 09-18-2011, 03:04 AM
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mike31154 mike31154 is offline
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Ha, with a 300 gal to start with, the world is your oyster, pun intended. I went straight into a marine set up, no fresh water experience, but a few friends/relatives have FW tanks so I know a little about that scenario. IMO the things that are quite a bit different between FW & SW are lighting, flow & water quality in no particular order.

Probably the first thing on the agenda would be water quality, best to get a RODI system & use pure water to mix up your soup with from the outset. No unkowns getting into your system that way.

Next, I'd say flow. Even during the cycle you'll want good water movement, so look into getting some propeller pumps since they are better at moving water in all the nooks & crannies than the laminar flow from conventional powerheads or pumps.

Lighting.... at the start you won't need to worry too much about it. It's going to take some time to cycle that bad boy, so whatever you have now for FW will probably be ok. Then, once you start adding livestock, you can put together a lighting plan. Chances are you're going to add a fish or two first, so again, lighting does not need to be ultra bright for them. As far as coral, good idea to start with some easier softies & LPS, so now you can look at bumping up the light intensity a little. It will probably be a few months before you're to that point, so you'll have plenty of time for additional research. This will be one of the larger expenses for a tank your size, so choose well depending on what your ultimate goal is. LED is definitely poised to edge out the current MH/T5HO technology, but still quite costly. Either way, lights are going to be $$$$$ if you're thinking full reef with an abundance of SPS coral. With 300 gals you can cram a few critters in there. Best of luck.
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Old 09-18-2011, 03:51 AM
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Here is a shot of my sump and tank, Its going to be a bit tricky getting a skimmer inside it and bigger chunks of live rock but there is plenty of room. I also have a secondary pipe right from the pump going back into the sump i may be able to tap into to run something like a uv or skimmer??? Also i guess all the bio balls and my pails and pails of ceramic rings will have to come out...


Its got 2 2" inch downpipes on each side in the overflows and 2 1 1/2" return pipes on each side that i will probably have to figure how to put loc lines onto with a manifold of some kind???, The pump is really large so it blows like crazy thus the dump pipe back into the sump or the fish looked like they were being flushed LOL
It was set up with tons of overkill as i used to keep asian arowanas so im hopeing i wont need much more current or pumps just better direction but we will see.
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Old 09-18-2011, 04:01 AM
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Myka Myka is offline
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Nice Aros!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hustler View Post
Here is a shot of my sump and tank, Its going to be a bit tricky getting a skimmer inside it Yikes! How much clearance do you have under the tank? Only looks like 20"?

and bigger chunks of live rock but there is plenty of room. I don't like live rock in the sump...it just collects detritus down there and I think the added filtration is limited. I siphon butt loads of detritus out of my sump and overflow and there is no rock in there.

I also have a secondary pipe right from the pump going back into the sump i may be able to tap into to run something like a uv or skimmer??? Also i guess all the bio balls and my pails and pails of ceramic rings will have to come out... the skimmer doesn't get tapped in. It sits there and is independent and does it's own thing. A UV needs to be plumbed into ALL return water to be 100% effective. That means if you have a Y in the return line you need to put the UV before the Y. If you have two return pumps you need to put one UV on each return line. Ya, take out all that biomedia stuff.

Its got 2 2" inch downpipes on each side in the overflows and 2 1 1/2" return pipes on each side that i will probably have to figure how to put loc lines onto with a manifold of some kind???, They sound fine the way they are. Be careful with loc-line that you don't end up directing the return line too far under water so that when you have a power outage the backwash doesn't overflow your sump. The pump is really large so it blows like crazy thus the dump pipe back into the sump or the fish looked like they were being flushed LOL Did you check the GPH on that puppy yet? Even a brand/model would help.
It was set up with tons of overkill as i used to keep asian arowanas so im hopeing i wont need much more current or pumps just better direction but we will see. Are there any powerheads in the tank? In a saltwater system you only want about 6-10x turnover through the sump. The majority of the flow comes from powerheads in the tank. Look into a Tunze Wavebox, on a nice long tank like yours it would make a sweet wave!
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Old 09-18-2011, 04:24 AM
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Well the pump (rebuilt) is from a display rack filter system, Its .25HP to 1.5HP..... and from what google says up to 68GPM

Ive got it on the lowest setting and it still dumps the 90 gallon wet dry in a few min....
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hustler View Post
Well the pump (rebuilt) is from a display rack filter system, Its .25HP to 1.5HP..... and from what google says up to 68GPM

Ive got it on the lowest setting and it still dumps the 90 gallon wet dry in a few min....
I don't recognize that pump. What's the label on it say? Any model names/numbers? I think the pump might be a bit too big for a reef sump...that sounds like it is over 4000 gph which would be 13x turnover or more. Too much flow through the sump washes a bunch of microbubbles from the skimmer up into your tank which makes the water look cloudy and irritates the corals. It is also a waste of electricity, and probably adds more heat to the tank than you need to. Anything more than 6x turnover through the sump is a waste as that is all the skimmer can process anyway.

Personally, I would replace it with two 1000 gph (at 5' head) pumps. this way if one ever breaks down you still have the other pumping. Redundancy is really important when you start getting into bigger and/or more expensive systems.

You didn't post how much clearance you have under there...?
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:40 AM
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the stand is 32" high but between the top of the sump and stand its 10" give or take. I can put the skimmer on the opposite end and I have a few baffles in there to eat up any champange bubbles. It also causes very little heat or noise the tank runs at 76f with the heaters unplugged.
The pump is a century lasar BN50.
I will eventually change it out for a diffrent style pump with better power ratings but Im hopeing for now it will do the trick to get everything seeded and cycled as I have a list that wont stop growing to buy for a tank that up till now has had everything its needed to be a show tank and run like a top lol
It sucks all my fish head friends are also all freshies and no one is even interested in salt so im basing everything on what i can read here or youtube... I will be making a few trips to local pet stores for more info but I always seem to get sold on something that never quite cuts it when i get home lol. I really appreciate the help you all are throwing my way.... Seems this was the place to find
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