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#1
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![]() Dremel tool with router attachment will do the trick. A little costly maybe, but comes with a guide that should make a straight cut without too much trouble. I used one of these to route out the grooves on wooden frame to install screening on a reptile enclosure I built for my daughter.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 08-30-2011 at 05:06 AM. |
#2
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![]() Definitely a dremel with a flex wand attachment and a small circular type saw bit will do the trick. I have one and have use it for a similar project.
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build |
#3
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![]() Or how about my cheap blade and some patience? I just snuck downstairs to test this idea out:
![]() I scored both sides of the valley and popped it out quickly in small bits to the depth of one ply. It's actually pretty easy to remove if you stick to ply-depths =) This took maybe 2 min. I'm going for it after I do a test going with the wood grain as well. Used the piece of drywall sanding screen to quickly sand inside the valley. I know I could do this even cleaner but once I paint this will easily look good enough. |
#4
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![]() that does look pretty clean!....... thats gonna take some time tho
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#5
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![]() just thinking about that......it works going across the grain......gonna be harder going with the grain.....the blade will tend to follow the grain....
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#6
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![]() Hmmm brain-lapse. I had meant to post that I'm going to test this going with the grain as well first. I should be in bed instead of using knives maybe!
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#7
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![]() It is indeed going to take time.
I would have to have my vertical lines match the vertical gaps between the canopy doors i think for continuity. and my horizontals would have to be the same distance from the stand ledge as the canopy edge to the bottom of the doors I think. I'll pencil them in and decide If I wanna commit ![]() |
#8
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![]() Quote:
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#9
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![]() I know
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#10
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![]() The front horizontal will be the full 8 feet and is against the grain.
The verticals on the stand and canopy are with the grain. So very short on canopy... but 40"+ for the stand's front. I think so long as I really giver'er against the T-square and cut through the surface cleanly it'll be ok. |