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#1
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![]() Just wondering, does everyone do water changes?
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#2
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![]() It's highly recommended, but no, not everyone does. If you choose not to, it's best to have a real reason not to, and know the risks and benefits. Being cheap on salt isn't a good reason
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Brad |
#3
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![]() I don't. I maybe do a refresh of about 20% every 6 months but that hardly counts as a water change.
When I do it I have two extra large rubbermaid containers, I fill one with DI water (don't have an RO unit but I do have a tester and the tap water here is like <100 TDS anyway) and mix the salt with a heater until it's tank temperature. I siphon a full amount's worth into the empty 2nd container and then use a small Quietone 1000 to pump the fresh mix into the tank. It's fast enough and can do a large volume without disturbing the animals or wrecking your back having to lift anything. |
#4
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![]() Thanks for all the feedback. Am I rushing this first water change? The tank has been setup for 3 weeks. My main reason for doing a waterchange is the diatoms on the sand and daily glass cleaning to control green algae.
Should I wait on the water change? Am I disrupting the natural cycling? Am I rushing this water change?
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![]() 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 coral beauty, 1 orchid dottyback, 5 electric blue hermit crabs, 4 babolonian whelk snails candy coral,torch coral and button polyps rena filstar xp3, Red Sea Prizm skimmer 2 ho 54W t5 10000k,2 ho 54w 420/460((aquatic life)Jager 200W heater Last edited by tprowse0804; 08-29-2011 at 02:37 PM. |
#5
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![]() I have a couple to rubbermaids plumbed together with a pump and hooked up to my RO/DI. Dump salt in and let it mix for awhile.
![]() Hook the hose up to this fitting to pump water out of the tank: ![]() Then I reverse the hose and hook it to the plumbing on the water change station to pump water back to the tank. A bit on the slow side but it works our well and I don't have to carry water.
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Robb Last edited by Parker; 08-29-2011 at 02:31 PM. Reason: Fat Finger Disease |
#6
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![]() what kind of hose fitting is that parker? hard to tell from the pic.
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#7
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![]() Quote:
I found it at Rona on the southside, it was in the plumbing section in the bins with all of the spigots. It's 100% poly / nylon you open and close it with a flat head screw driver. 1/2 NPT on one side threaded for a standard hose on the other.
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Robb |
#8
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![]() Quote:
Soft cycling is where you attempt to keep the life on your live rock alive with frequent water changes: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/inde...owtopic=180442 You might be able to speed up your cycle by starting water changes after the ammonia spike (which you are probably past now): http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/inde...owtopic=202427 http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/inde...c=206500&st=40 Diatoms and algae are likely due to excess nutrients in your system. Three ways to remove excess nutrients: biological filter, skimmer, water changes. Hope that helps. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
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![]() 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 coral beauty, 1 orchid dottyback, 5 electric blue hermit crabs, 4 babolonian whelk snails candy coral,torch coral and button polyps rena filstar xp3, Red Sea Prizm skimmer 2 ho 54W t5 10000k,2 ho 54w 420/460((aquatic life)Jager 200W heater |
#10
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![]() This is my routine:
Clean glass. Drain out 6% of water (weekly water changes) by siphoning out water from the BOTTOM of the tank (Ammonia and poo is heavier than water). Rinse out and clean filter media in old saltwater. Mix new saltwater, add prime. Let sit for 10-15 mins. Slowly add new water to sump, not directly to the display tank. I killed my waving hand xenias by adding directly to the tank. Different PH and water temp I guess.
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![]() 314 gallon Drop Off Reef tank. 150 gallon sump. Bean Animal Overflow. Various Tangs, Angels, Triggers, Inverts, Corals, etc. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=80379 |