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#1
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![]() If all you're measuring is 1 to 1.2 volts, you're doing pretty good. I reckon most people have a little more than that. And to clarify, volts & current are two different animals, you don't want to confuse them. With voltage that low, even if you add a grounding probe (which will cause electrical current to flow), the amount of electrical current will be harmless to a healthy human. A GFCI is still pretty much a must for safety reasons though.
Even with no equipment physically in the water, it is still possible to have voltage induced into the water, by fluorescent lights hanging over the tank or sump for example. The electromagnetic field produced by fluorescents and their ballasts will do this.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#2
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![]() Thanks to both SPHELPS and Mike for the quick replies, glad that this is kinda on the 'normal' side of things. Already have GFCI and don't particularily want (and now probably won't) have a grounding probe. Never noticed the stray voltage before, but was just paying closer attention this time as just was replacing sump with a bigger one (10 gal to 33 gal). Thanks again for the help.
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Darrell |
#3
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![]() How are you measuring this stray voltage? And what is a bad amount to have?
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#4
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![]() Most people use a digital multimeter with the measurement scale set to AC Volts. One lead in the water, the other into an appropriate ground, commonly the grounding prong in an electrical receptacle.
As for what amount is considered bad, that's a bit of a tricky one to answer, but I'd start investigating the electrical components I have submerged in the water if you start seeing anything above the range of 20 to 30 VAC. As I mentioned in my earlier post, certain fluorescent lighting fixtures may induce a fair amount of voltage into the water, especially if they're close to the surface. That goes for MH lights as well depending on type of ballast and where it is located. Also worth mentioning that it's a good idea to ground individual reflectors on your T5HOs if that's feasible. Here's some further reading which may clarify or be of use: http://angel-strike.com/aquarium/GFI...alDetails.html http://angel-strike.com/aquarium/GroundingProbes.html
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 05-11-2011 at 03:14 PM. |
#5
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![]() I'd unplug each electrical device in the sump one by one until the voltage disappears.
Then replace the last thing you unplugged.
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-Mark 29 Gal Bowfront w/24" LED Lights. DIY HOB Sump (5.4 Gal) MP40. Orange Spotted Watchman Goby, 2 Clownfish and a few hermits. |
#6
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![]() I had a cable fault on one of my powerheads and was getting 120v in the tank, good thing the floor was dry when i found that. I want a ground probe but have not put one in yet.. that was not tripping the gfci either, although it probably would have with a probe.
after i fixed that 20-25v was what was left from all powerheads running. most was coming from my internal powerheads , the rest from a heater i no longer use. do the DC tunze pumps induce any voltage into the tank? or do only the externals<vortech> get that claim? |
#7
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![]() I took a "poke" three times tonight and I'm an electrician...faulty powerhead, faulty heater and faulty pump....if you stick your hand in the water and you get shocked, or feel a buzzzz, unplug things until it stops....yes, with a volt tic, you will pick up current but nothing to panic about......if it shocks you, it's shocking your investment(loved ones!$)
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