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#1
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![]() Same here. I keep quite a diversity of coral in a heavily fed, aggressively skimmed system. I was just hoping that I could use them instead of GFO to keep the phosphate in my system undetectable. So I tried the minimum recommended amount and then even less a second time and each time many of my soft coral began to bleach within a few weeks and my sandbed started to get covered with cyano. I can think of two things that I may have done wrong that might at least in part explain why they didn't work for me. The first was that the reactor output probably wasn't aimed well enough towards my skimmer's intake. The second was that I have not had detectable nitrate in several years. From what I've read they consume 4:1 nitrate to phosphate. But to me this still doesn't explain why 100ml of Vertex pellets would begin to kill off some of the coral in my +200gal system.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#2
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![]() In fact they consume 16:1 nitrates to phosphates I think. I guess you got very limited on nitrates. In my case I would hit 0 on phosphates before. Maybe I shouldn't clean the frozen mysis shrimp before dropping them to keep some phosphates.
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#3
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![]() I took my reactors off online last night and cleaned my sump. Today I'll be adding chateo and trying out a couple mangroves. And maybe later I'll run some GFO after my tank settles a bit. hopefully thing will turn around
The output of my bio pellet reactor was aimed towards my skimmer. I have a dark brown skimmate which needs to be empty and cleaned at least every three days. I've alway used instant ocean, cause I can always find it. Potassium depletion may have been an issue, but I considered the possibly a supplement of some nature was lacking, and that's why I changed to 40% water changes monthly with no effect. And I don't think tumbling was ever an issue. The first few days I ran the reactor faster than I should have, so the clumping would resolve. When clumping wasn't an issue, I decreased the flow and the pellets would rise and fall gently.
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My 265 gallon build! |
#4
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![]() I started using biopellets after 1.5 years of running my tank and within a month my sand, rocks and glass were covered in cyano. Output was aimed directly at the skimmer, but maybe I had them tumbling too fast in the reactor. It's kind of hard to tell what 'too fast' is without physically watching the reactor of someone who is using them successfully.
I probably would have stuck it out and tried tweaking things if I hadn't needed to break down my tank, but it's food for thought for the next build. |
#5
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![]() Quote:
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90 gal, 30 gal sump, T5 lights Just getting into simple corals. My wife already hates my new hobby! ![]() |
#6
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![]() wow....I was ready to start using them....now I'm having second thoughts...argh!
Last edited by imcosmokramer; 09-28-2011 at 08:56 PM. |
#7
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![]() A bacterial bloom is normal during the initial stages of running biopellets. You should have just been patient, sucked out the cyano and ride it through.
And yes, if the tumble was too fast, the bacterial mulm wont be able to hang onto the pellets. Quote:
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Gary Tank was up for 7yrs and 10months. Thanks Everyone! 2016/2017 180Gallon Build Coming Soon... |
#8
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![]() getting really ****ed off at the constant clumping in TLF 150 with a 550 gph powerhead pushing it.
regular cyano outbreaks. but hey i had cyano before i had pellets. I am sure if the dammed things would just keep tumbling they would work great but every day i have to take the thing apart and stir all the white grossness up to get them tumbling again only to have them all mostly stuck again in an hour. any ideas how to make a tlf reactor work better? bah probably just scrap the thing and run the tank without for a bit. considering zeo but buying anything for the tank lately falls into spousal fury territory. |
#9
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![]() I think the problem with clumping is due to the fact that we all use the retro fit reactor.
my nexreef reactor will clog us every few days, and pellets start to clump together. untill I decided to remove the bottom mesh, I now have some dead spot that won't get any flow, but, beats having to clean the mesh every few days. However I do think pellets works, I have no cyano anymore little to no hair algae. polyp extension looks really good. and I only change 30% of water every month. At this point I am thinking of ordering a purpose build pellet reactor, like JNS pellet reactor, which create a turbulence in the chamber rather than an constant up flow current. although, there's no local dealer here. and I may have to order it from oversea. But it might worth it.
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150DD mix reef with 90 gal sump and 40gal frag tank purple tang, sohal tang, yellow eye kole tang, fairy wrasse. cleaner wrasse, leopard wrasse, and misc fish. GHL Mitras 6200HV X 2, MP40 X 2, MP60 X 1, tunze 6095 X 2, Vertex RX6 calcium reactor, Bubble King SM250, Aquamaxx bio pellets reactor, Profilux 3 |
#10
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![]() I did this mod to both of my TLF150 reactors and the difference has been NIGHT AND DAY:
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...8&postcount=24 You can just gently twist off the bottom red plate, then glue the rest of the tubing together into the lid. Be sure to put a knitting mesh above the top red plate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjnFv...layer_embedded (i've put in more pellets since then, the reactors are 3/4 full now). I'm only running a MJ1200 and MJ900, and they're both choked back with 1/2" valves. 550gph sounds like major overkill! Also regarding your clumping, it's probably due to air bubbles stuck against the pellets. My reactors are hanging on the side of the sump, so I just lift out the bottom half of the reactor, let go, and let it bang against the sump. This shakes up the reactor and releases a bunch of the micro bubbles, and reduces clumping. Short of that, you have to give it more time! If you're only waiting an hour before cracking it open and stirring it, you're just injecting more bubbles when the pump starts up again. Shake up the reactor to loosen up the bubbles, and let it tumble for 1-2 weeks. If you have enough flow (which you must, with 550gph), then the clumps will slowly disappear. PATIENCE, GRASSHOPPER. Quote:
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Gary Tank was up for 7yrs and 10months. Thanks Everyone! 2016/2017 180Gallon Build Coming Soon... Last edited by GMGQ; 05-25-2011 at 11:55 PM. |