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#1
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![]() Silicone actually dries pretty sturdy. Just squeeze a good bead along the bottom, and press it down, and squeeze some more around to fill in the edges, and let it cure overnight.
I used it to put lucite baffles in my sump, holds rock hard. It was actually a PITA to remove when I wanted to change the layout of my sump!
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Gary Tank was up for 7yrs and 10months. Thanks Everyone! 2016/2017 180Gallon Build Coming Soon... |
#2
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![]() I assume the tank is glass with a black plastic brace around the top. You removed the black plastic center brace and are looking replace it with clear. Best solution is use glass, have it cut to fit exactly from inside front pane to rear pane (same length as side glass panes). Install the glass brace with silicone underneath the plastic brace so you have glass on glass contact. This will be the strongest. Another alternative is to remove all black plastic trim on the top and Euro brace the whole tank, this eliminates the need for a center brace all together.
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#3
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![]() Quote:
Secondly, tank is full of water and I would not be sure it would hold withouit plastic rim. It is an All Glass Aquarium. I have ordered a piece of glass and will try to seal it as tight at both ends as tight to the glass as possible. should have just went this route at the start, was looking around for material and the only thing laying around was plexi. Cheap never works........
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Mike 36 Gallon Saltwater http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72283 90 Gallon Slow Build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82824 |
#4
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![]() ahh bow front, lame!
![]() Should note that modifying any bracing on a tank should be done with no load so the tank should be empty. |
#5
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![]() I had a corner bowfront and had Crystal gals in Edmonton cut me a curved peice of glass for a top, they just asked me to cut them a template out of cardboard and they did the rest, it was a perfect fit.
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Glass box with stoney stuff and fisches... |
#6
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![]() In the middle of remodeling my sump right now also, but it is glass on glass and I didn't think it would work with glass and plastic.
Should have asked question here first LOL. Would have saved the " Why do you always have to modify things " Question from my wife............... Quote:
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Mike 36 Gallon Saltwater http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72283 90 Gallon Slow Build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82824 |
#7
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![]() try gorilla glue-this stuff expands so make a couple of dams with masking tape(the green plastic type)
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#8
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![]() still better than "I told you so" from the wife
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150DD mix reef with 90 gal sump and 40gal frag tank purple tang, sohal tang, yellow eye kole tang, fairy wrasse. cleaner wrasse, leopard wrasse, and misc fish. GHL Mitras 6200HV X 2, MP40 X 2, MP60 X 1, tunze 6095 X 2, Vertex RX6 calcium reactor, Bubble King SM250, Aquamaxx bio pellets reactor, Profilux 3 |
#9
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![]() This is what I've seen before. Weldon and nylon bolts.
http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/sh...3&postcount=10 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...25&postcount=6 Last edited by Samw; 05-01-2011 at 05:19 AM. |
#10
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![]() Wouldn't you know it. I went and had a piece of glass cut to fit. Came home to replace the plexiglass so I had to cut off last of the black plastic brace. One end wouldn't come apart and the other end only released after applying a lot of pressure. So I finished the trimming, added more epoxy, clamped it together. Went to it this morning and it is bonded. I have the glass as a backup if it fails, but maybe I got lucky and have solved this problem.
As for the two links, I was kinda wondering what fastening device would work in this environment. Nylon screws would be perfect. Thanks for all the good advise and ideas, If there are any changes I will report them...
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Mike 36 Gallon Saltwater http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72283 90 Gallon Slow Build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82824 |