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#1
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![]() What if he's starting out with reefer (base) rock ?
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-Mark 29 Gal Bowfront w/24" LED Lights. DIY HOB Sump (5.4 Gal) MP40. Orange Spotted Watchman Goby, 2 Clownfish and a few hermits. |
#2
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![]() Then it would be a moot point. but with a NH3 reading of .5ppm, something died, so I'm assuming live rock.
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Brad |
#3
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![]() I do waterchanges on cycling rock when ammonia goes over 1 ppm or nitrate goes over 5 ppm. Sometimes I'm fussier than that. Ammonia will kill off life hitching a ride on the rock, and nitrate will get absorbed into the rock (later releasing from the rock and causing nutrient issues like algae). Unlike freshwater, nitrite is non-toxic to marine life until very high range (think ~100ppm) so don't worry about nitrite.
Check the link in my signature for lots of info on cycling. |
#4
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![]() Good to know !
I didn't mean to hijack Dominic's thread but I'll be starting a new tank in the next little while and I'll have all reefer rock so this is of particular interest !
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-Mark 29 Gal Bowfront w/24" LED Lights. DIY HOB Sump (5.4 Gal) MP40. Orange Spotted Watchman Goby, 2 Clownfish and a few hermits. |
#5
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![]() Dry base rock should ideally be "cooked" to leech phosphate and nitrate. Dry rock often has lots of trapped organics. Check out the link in my signature for that info too.
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