will this work? Siphoning from tank to tank

[hillegom]

I am not sure if I have everything right. But I think you are pumping up from the basement to the higher 3' tank and then syphoning from that to the new 6' tank, where it will overflow back to the basement sump.
If that is the case, then in a power failure, the syphon breaks, no longer flowiing from the 3' to the 6' then back to sump in basement.
Then you must have a means to recreate the suction from the 3' to the 6' when the power comes back on. If it is a U tube, they don't start themselves. That could be done with a cheap powerhead. You use the suction from the part that would normally carry air before it mixes with the outflow.(fresh water tank)
But I agree with the other posters about getting a bigger sump pump. Less hassles and worry.

[Dez]

You could also just t off your return pump and just have it trickle into the 6 footer and then run the drain to the cube drain. I have my frag tank set up like this. This way you are not adding any more flow so a larger drain is not necessary. Then just make sure you have a closed loop or lots of flow from powerheads in the 6 footer.

I have barely a trickle going into both of my frag tanks and just use Tunze's for flow in the frag tank. My frags have been doing well and growing for the past year and a half. Hope this helps.

[reefwars]

agreed with all but if im reading right cant you just split everything anyways?? i mean tee off your return into both tanks... even up over if you have to and have your drains emptying into the same sump???? no need for a syphon tube at all???


if both tanks are drilled then why use a syphon??

[2pts]

Thanks everyone.

I'm going to keep on the look out for a good deal on a used stronger pump which will feed the 6' tank. I'll keep the weaker pump supplying the 3' tank, from the same sump.

I am now thinking to add a return line to the 3' tank which I can hide through the rear wall/back of canopy. Then change the two 1 1/2" holes to 1 herbie return and 1 emergency drain.

On the 6' tank, a 1" herbie in each corner, tee'd together just under the tank going into 1 1/2" line, then with 1 gate valve to restrict the flow. 1 emergency 1" drain in each corner, both seperately running directly to the sump.

Mike... thank you for the kind offer, but I think I'll just hold off setting it up up untill I can find a used pump.

I bought an RO unit from phitopharmer without the cartridges a few months ago. I have been just running to the RO/DI pay water station near Polson Park for my top up water, and drinking water.

As I am not adding any liverock to my system ( I have about 240lbs I am just going to be splitting between the 2 tanks), that means I am increasing my water volume of my system 125 gallons.

At $7 per 20 gallons (the price at the pay station), it would take me $42 dollars to fill the new tank. Plus about $20 / month to do water changes / top ups. So I figure I'll return my ten water bottles at $10 deposits per bottle for $100. The money I will use to get my RO unit up and running, when I'm ready could I hit you up for your help Mike? From seeing your system, you obviously know your stuff with the RO units.

Thanks, Shawn.

[mike31154]

Sure thing Shawn. If you wish I'd be willing to run my RODI for you to fill up a few jugs. LMK how much you'd like and maybe bring the containers over & I'll fill them up for you.

[Delphinus]

I have seen folks run two tanks where the tops were at the same level and just connected by U-tubes. As far as flow theory goes I don't see a reason it wouldn't work.

But I wouldn't do it personally. Not just for the risk of disease as you've already pointed out but that for fish poop and surface oils you kind of want a direct line to your skimmer. Also U-tubes get air bubbles and the siphon can fail.