![]() |
|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() (Flow should get better over time as the sand starts to get a biological film over the grains.)
Wow that is quite the writeup for water changes. ![]() I suppose an alternative to flow meters on the peristaltic pumps you could install high and low level sensors in the sump? If one of the pumps failed, blocked or otherwise became out of calibration it probably wouldn't take long for the sump level to rise or fall so a few float sensors in there might be a simple approach ?
__________________
-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
The challenge with level sensors is evaporation and ATO. It would work if the pump taking water from the tank failed. I think the rate of water change would exceed evaporation and the water level in the tank would slowly rise. However, if the pump adding new water to the tank failed, the ATO would keep the water level constant. My current plan is to observe the system using a salinity probe. If either pump fails, the salinity should drift. If the calibration of the pumps is not perfect, the salinity should drift. I have no plans to use the salinity probe for control, but it should provide a good indication of the CWC operation. I may use it to automatically shut the whole system off if something doesn't look right, but the rate of change should be small enough that I can manually react long before a real problem arises. My only concern with the Salinity probe is getting a stable reading. When I tried this on my 90G tank, I was never successful in getting an accurate and stable reading. If the probe drifts on it's own, it won't tell me anything about the operation of the CWC. The initial calibration doesn't have to be exact, but the measurement will need to be 100% stable. I'm hoping that I can find a way to achieve this with the newer hardware and a better understanding of how the probe works. We shall see soon enough ![]() The system is working well for me now, but there's probably some minor improvements still to be made. |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() March FTS
![]()
|
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Looks gerate...Any detail pics of the mounting apparatus?
__________________
Glass box with stoney stuff and fisches... |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Looks sweet.
__________________
Sometimes life is best left to it's own devices. If your not happy at what you're looking at, you're looking at it the wrong way. My 320g DIY Build in progress watch at ----> http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66154 |
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Thanks Greenmaster. Can't wait to see your tank take off. You've really shown your ability to be patient these last couple of months. Good job!
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() I will be very interested to see what you think of the lighting , and how it works out for you . I was looking at these as a possible option one day for me as well.
Everything looks well done so far . Great job. |
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Hey Cale
Thanks for the props. The light is currently suspended from a light rack that was built as a feature of the stand. I have to admit that this has been very useful, but ultimately I don't think it will be my final solution. One problem is the rails are positioned at the outer edge of the tank whereas the mount point for the Vertex is about 10 inches inside. What this light rack does is buy me time while I figure out how to suspend the light from the ceiling. ![]() ![]() I wanted the ability to slide the light out of the way, so I hung the lights from a short section of acrylic tubing. I used a couple of felt guard sticky things that protect floors from furniture to allow it to slide. Again, not perfect, but it serves the purpose. Last edited by abcha0s; 03-30-2011 at 01:09 AM. |
![]() |
Tags |
custom tank, deep dimension, high end, redundant, reef |
|
|