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#1
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Water's in, plumbing's leak free, salt's in, sand's in.
I'm expecting the cloudiness to take a week to settle down. I need to order some loc-line or something similar to drop the outlets of the Seaswirls about 1-1/2" because they are causing too much turbulence and noise at the top. The closed loop is running fine, but I had to shorten the lower part of the workbench because I decided to use for a sump an old 180g aquarium I had instead of selling it and buying a plastic replacement. 4' of the sump will be tucked under the aquarium to save on space a bit. Because I'm now using a glass sump, it's not as easy to drill and experiment with different hookups. I don't have a final valving configuration for the bidirectional tidal flow yet. Hopefully that will be figured out soon, otherwise I'll be going with two separate pumps. I would like to get the sump drilled and finalized next weekend. ...and here's a couple of pics: ![]() ![]()
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Mitch |
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#2
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Looks great Mitch! Bet you can't wait to see "stuff" in there..
![]() Like how you've mounted the seaswirls. One nice thing about these larger tanks is the increased elbow room. I thought my 280g was big until I started getting stuff mounted on the light rack. I want an auto feeder up there somewhere but I haven't figured out where I'll be able to shoehorn it in. I don't imagine you're going to run into a lot of the same issues. ![]()
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
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#3
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Thanks, Tony.
Actually, up to this point I have had a thought in the back of my mind saying to me - what kind of a make work project have you gotten yourself into this time?.. Not until I saw the sand in it today have I really become excited about it! Now I want to stay home from work and just keep working on it. Not an option, I'm afraid! I see they now have come out with 1-1/2" seaswirls. I might upgrade to a couple of those in the future. We'll see how these do.
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Mitch |
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#4
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I have an auto-feeder planned too.
The top brace on the tank is 8" wide, so I had lots of room for it to sit. It's going next to the front left sea swirl. It comes with a tube that extends down below the surface of the water so it stops the food from going down the overflow. ![]()
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Mitch |
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#5
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What is the output nozzle like on the seaswirls? I've been wanting to replace the outputs on my wavysea's with locline too but I think I'd have to switch the output from stock to 1" PVC elbow with a bushing to mount the locline and I kind of worry how bad that would look. Plus when I tried hanging Tunzes off them initially with a DIY bracket, I found that 1" PVC was just ever so slightly too large for a snug fit. I don't know if it's a metric size or what but it's not a standard 1" PVC coupling size for the output apparently.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
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#6
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It looks like it's a 1" male threaded to barb adapter.
Is your threaded or slip?
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Mitch |
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#8
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Slip, sort of. It's grooved to hold an o-ring. When I was playing around with the DIY mounts I tried larger o-rings to see if that could make it snug but it was either too big or too small, never "just right".
Threaded makes a lot of sense!!! Score one for Seaswirls in that case. One of mine stopped working so I've taken it off and was going to crack it open to see if I could fix it, if that works out maybe I'll swap the pipe for for a threaded fitting (I have no idea how feasible the idea is, never looked inside a Wavysea before).
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |