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#1
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![]() That's probably because you never did anything to get rid of it. Once you treat for it and you quarantine everything properly, then there is such thing as a ich free tank.
It,s not just a matter of doing a quarantine, but treating with hyposalinity each fish that come into the main tank. That's what I do and I have no ich. You are probably right in your situation because your system is not ich free and never will be unless you do what's needed for it. I am also right because I am doing what is needed and my system is ich free. Stating LFS as a reference is no reference though. I don't have to beleive what I want, I simply see the result...no ich. None, niet. Never any outbreak, nothing. Quote:
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#2
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![]() Daniella
I am very interested in your success with hypo salinity. As with everything there is some debate about it's effectiveness. I know that some of the people who hang around at WetWebMedia are less than convinced that it works. However, I know there are many people like yourself who have found it to be an effective cure for Ich. Is there any chance you could start a new thread and talk a little bit about your process? - If you do, please let me know just in case I miss it. Put a disclamer at the top of your post stating that the thread is for discussion around treating Ich, not debating whether "Ich is everywhere". I think you and I are equally frustrated when we here this myth. - Brad |
#3
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![]() Quote:
I guess what I am saying is what you say isn't the Godly truth and if you don't do it your way, its wrong.... Cuz that isn't the case. Many ways for many people I guess. To the thread creator and others seeking knowledge, just take all advice in stride... Non of us can claim to be experts, so please just use your common sense. If you choose to QT, go for it, if not then that is fine also.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk Last edited by globaldesigns; 03-05-2011 at 01:49 AM. |
#4
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![]() That's pretty much the stance I am taking on the issue. I personally I'll quarantine all fish before they go into the main tank. It might be a different story if I didn't have another tank to use. I won't go buy an all new setup just to quarantine in a 29 gal instead of a 10. This is just the decision I've made based on the wealth of information that I've read.
Daniella, do you treat all new fish hen you qt before you introduce them to the display tank, or do you use it only as needed? |
#5
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#6
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#7
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![]() Sorry for the misconception. I plan on quarantining all new additions, I was wondering whether to treat all new additions with hyposalinity while in qt, or only if needed.
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#8
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![]() If you want to make sure that you will not introduce ick, then yes you must treat with hyposalinity each new addition. It must be done with a good refractometer though, not a hydrometer as they are not precise enough. It's sad, it's long but with some liverock there is no need to do water change much.
I did an exception with my niger trigger wich I treated with Seachem Paraguard for 3 weeks because of a popeye so for him I did not use hypo treatment because the paraguard already kill the ick and some other parasites. Paraguard did not kill my liverock biofilter. It's never a good idea to combine hyposalinity with other medication. Usualy hyposalinity does not stress the fish. The main problem come when you have some sensitive fish that must eat live food, like a mandarin because hypo kill all pods and invertebrates. Then maybe a simple observation for these would be ok. Mandarins are not very susceptible to ick anyway as they produce a very thick mucus. You should use common sense too. Some fish are much less susceptible to ick. I would definitly treat all tang and all fish that are known to be susceptible to ich. The most important thing is a proper observation period of 4 weeks minimum to make sure you don't bring velvet in your tank. Marine velvet is a deadly thing. Last edited by daniella3d; 03-05-2011 at 01:36 PM. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#10
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![]() Wow , Copperband cop and QT expert. She is a busy girl.
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Mike 36 Gallon Saltwater http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72283 90 Gallon Slow Build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82824 |