What is the definition of a tank crash?

#1 03-05-2011, 12:30 AM

Just a thought, but if you have a new metal halide and you were running a less intense light you may have shocked your coral.

When we went from the PC light to our new metal halide things were not happy at first. we set the halide about 18 inches off the surface to start on only 4 hours a day. the corals closed up for almost a week then gradually started coming out and looking better.

we have since moved out halides down and are on for 6 hours of halide but it took a while for the corals to adjust.

I dont know if this is causing you issues but you may want to think about the timing of your issues in the tank.

The Grizz · #2 03-05-2011, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pyke

Just a thought, but if you have a new metal halide and you were running a less intense light you may have shocked your coral.

When we went from the PC light to our new metal halide things were not happy at first. we set the halide about 18 inches off the surface to start on only 4 hours a day. the corals closed up for almost a week then gradually started coming out and looking better.

we have since moved out halides down and are on for 6 hours of halide but it took a while for the corals to adjust.

I dont know if this is causing you issues but you may want to think about the timing of your issues in the tank.

That could be a possibility, when I switch to my new MH I to noticed it took a little time for things to get happy again. Leather and zoas especially can get light shocked really easy in my experience.

Wayne · #3 03-05-2011, 02:18 AM

I have had the metal halides for a few months now. I since they have been on I slowly increased the time duration by 15 minutes every week. I certainly was hoping that it was something that simple

Wayne · #4 03-05-2011, 01:34 PM

Is it better to transfer some items to my other tanks or just leave things be?

Aquattro · #5 03-05-2011, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne

Is it better to transfer some items to my other tanks or just leave things be?

Judgment call on your part. If it's some type of disease or contaminant, you might transfer it. Or not...

Wayne · #6 03-05-2011, 01:50 PM

Are there dieseses that only affect corals and not fish?

Wayne · #7 03-05-2011, 02:02 PM

How about stray voltage? Do I need an analog voltage meter to check for that?

cwatkins · #8 03-05-2011, 03:48 PM

Anything metal like fall in to the tank or sump? Screw or something else?

paddyob · #9 03-05-2011, 04:04 PM

If you have a brown algae on your zoas... it is most likely a cyano. Use a turkey baster to clean them off and they will be fine.

As for the issues... wow. Keep monitoring.

As for a huge water change the day after a huge water change... be careful. To do an almost 100% water change in two days may also be detrimental.

Good luck Wayne.

Wayne · #10 03-05-2011, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paddyob

If you have a brown algae on your zoas... it is most likely a cyano. Use a turkey baster to clean them off and they will be fine.

As for the issues... wow. Keep monitoring.

As for a huge water change the day after a huge water change... be careful. To do an almost 100% water change in two days may also be detrimental.

Good luck Wayne.

I only did a 10% water change today and I did pull my zoa's out. LPS is looking better, mushrooms look ok, and only one leather isn't doing good. SPS is 90% dead (just a few small frags, once I get this sorted out anyone got some monti cap they don't want?)

So all in all its not bad, but certainly not right! I have shut my return pump off to isolate the two tanks hoping that if I do have stray voltage its in the sump... Going to get a meter today