quarantine tank question

[phi delt reefer]

QT tank setups are so cheap that i cant possibly understand why you wouldnt QT your fish.

I have read a lot about QT'ing and here what my combined research says...


brand new ten gallon bare tank - $25
aquaclear 50 - $40 - you dont need a powerhead - the aquaclear has 200gph flow so that would be 20x tank turn over in ten gallon.
jager 50w heater - $24

thats $90 - whats most of your fish and corals cost? Whats the current value of the livestock/corals in your tank?

still feeling cheap? jump on kijiji and pick up all that stuff for less than half that.

in your sump put some rubble on eggrete spread out 1 layer thick (so it looks like a checkerboard) - this will prevent the buildup on dietrus in between the rocks and causing issues. You could even GLUE the rock to the eggcreate to make it easier!

throw that into you QT tank when needed - remember surface area is more important that rock weight so large rocks wont be as effective as this method.

the filter pads within those hob filters are only good for 1-3 months so dont throw it into your sump until shortly before you get your fish.

Do a water change in your main tank - use 5 gallons of that water along with 5 gallons of new water to fill your QT. That should have enough "goodies" for your water. May wanna run the water through a filter sock if its got some particulate it in it though.

do new saltwater changes every week - 25% - vacuum/clean the bottom of tank for debris.

QT for 21-30 days. Remove rocks from tank when using any type of medication. Put some PVC elbows in there to provide some hiding places but keep it simple and clean.

thats my 2cents

[Lance]

Nothing goes in my tanks without quarantining first. Aside from the fact of introducing nasties into the DT, I think it's important to acclimate new fish without the stress of competition. I have a 33g with a 20g sump with skimmer, lighting, PH's etc. I use it for a frag tank and QT. I can observe the new livestock and fatten them up before going to the DT. If I need to medicate I have a spare 20g ready to go. It might be a little more expensive set up than most but I feel it's necessary and it works for me.

[naesco]

When I got into the hobby I choose fish because they were, well, pretty.
If there was only one left at the LFS I bought it on the spot because I was afraid someone else would buy it and often another reefer was there looking at it too. The result was I bought fish that had little chance of survival in anyone's tank because I did not know better and predictably the fish got sick and spread disease or ich to others.
I did not know whether the fish was healthy because I did not know what to look for.

With experience you know whether the fish is healthy and you carefully observe it and put it is a QT if there is any sign of a potential problem.
I follow a garlic regimen religiously too ensure that ich will not develop for the first two weeks of a new addition.

As a newbie I bought 'medicins' that did not work and unintentionally over (more is better) or under medicated (metric)the QT with the result that I lost fish in the QT. Regrettably, I also got slack on QT water changes with the result that I had deaths as a result of probable ammonia poisoning.

Like many things in this hobbby (except the requirements of large tanks for tangs) it is a matter of preference. In either case you have to take care.

Thanks for asking. Oh ya, I use plastic pipe instead of live rock as the meds will kill anyting in the live rock. Almost daily water changes and sucking out excess food and detritus out keeps ammonia in check