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#1
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![]() Avoid L's in your drain pipe after the bulkhead. Any accidental bump on the horizontal section of drainpipe after the L can put a lot of torque on the bulkhead, leading to a leak.
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120 gallon sps/anemones/LPS reef since 2004 Apex controller 8 x 54 watt T5 PowerModule Herbie's silent overflow system Jebao DC 12000 return pump Jecod CP-40 Cross-flow circulation device Mini Bubble King 180 Barr Aquatics calcium reactor Bucket fuge |
#2
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![]() I think gate valves are the way to go, but I wondered if the components are brass ... this might conflict with saltwater no? I also heard rumor that to some that any 90 degree angle adds to slowing down the, er... it just slows the water movement. I wouldn't want to add strain to the pipe circulation situation, ultimately lining me up with joint weakness and maybe eventually a pop off. ...
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#3
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![]() We'll never deal with any pressures that make that a risk. That is good advice about not bumping the plumbing. An unmolested bulkhead is a happy bulkhead.
The PVC gate valves with the big wheel you turn...all plastic so no worries. They're just silly expensive. I'd make the second 1.5" hole an emergency drain in case the first gets plugged. Then you can do a herbie setup. I'd just run my return up and over the top no need to tie up that precious hole when you only have 2. |
#4
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![]() Search for Herbie and Beananimal drain, learn all you can, you will not regret it.
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