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#1
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![]() Agree about the live rock. The eco rock will not provide you any of the "goodies" that live rock has.
I am not sure on time length to seed, or whether or not one piece is enough.... but you should definitely add some live rock for sure. Seems like you have a lot of bases covered already. As for a top.... avoid a glass cover. It traps heat and gases. Make a screen cover that is closed around all edges. You can get screen for screen doors or knitting screen form a place like Michaels (As recommended to me in another thread.
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![]() My 70 Gallon build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66478 My Mandarin Paradise: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72762 I wonder... does anyone care enough to read signatures if you make them really small? I would not. I would probably moan and complain, read three words and swear once or twice. But since you made it this far, please rate my builds. ![]() |
#2
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![]() K, I'll go against the grain here. For a fowler tank, aragonite sand and dry rock is fine. No need for live rock but a little seed wont hurt. Treat as you would a fresh tank for cycling. either hardy fish or add amonia/fishfood/ect to start because there won't be enough die off of live rock to get it started. monitor parameters. the nitrates aren't as much of a concern with a fowler but do water changes when they (or ammonia, or nitrite ) creep up. eventually the nitrate eaters will establish on the rock and they will fall also.
Go for the glass top if you want. T5's don't put out much and the skimmer gives tons of gas exchange. my 2 cents |
#3
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![]() Quote:
theres a few points here i disagree with the first being the liverock.....you need liverock because the bacteria will eat up amonia as fast as it is produced via your bio-load(your tank inhabitants) your gonna need min 1lb/gallon in a folwr but the more the merrior. you can seed the dry rock you have but it will take a few months to seed fully which is ok if you keep your bio load low so that you can keep up with the amount of amonia that is produced. t5's are great and many people rather them over halides they can be as strong as you need them to be and can grow any coral just the same as halides. its the maintanance and heating and cost you need to decide on. dont use the glass top as pat mentioned yur gonna need to have some sort of sir exchange and this is especially so in larger aquariums.mesh works fine ![]() nitrates and phosphates are very important in fowlr as they are food for algae and if its there then so will algae.its easiest to get your nitrates low in the beginning and keep them there via water changes and good maintance.use ro water and invest in some reactors. some key points 1) lots of live rock the more the merrior 2) invest in a controller or at least a timer for your lights 3) invest in a reactor for carbon and one for phosphates 4)water changes once a week or at least every two and this is very important 5)set up a quarantine tank for new fish 6) ask here for every move and you cant go wrong were all here to help ![]() cheers on the new tank im looking forward to some pics ![]() ![]()
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#4
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![]() Hi The tank came with the plumbing.
The intake pvc is 1 1/2" inside diameter and the return looks like 1" The mag 18 pump that came with it is 1800gph and 145 watts. The eheim is 910gph and 80 watts. Would the eheim be enough for this tank with a good skimmer and a powerhead? Thanks for the sand info.Might go with the pink caribsea. Screen for the top is a great idea.I like the open top but hate fish on the floor. Got advice to start with eco rock and add a reliable source of live rock to seed.Less chance to get unwanted stuff and a little cheaper. Not sure on how this changes the cycle time. As for fish list this is a rough start.Let me know what you think? 1 or 2 percula clownfish Royal Gramma Blue Throat Trigger (might be too big but seen it done on a forum) Flame Angel Blue Spotted Puffer Flame Hawkfish Dragon Wrasse juvenile (know they change and get 1' but heard there ok in a non reef setup for a while). Was thinking goby or lawnmower blenny but if I get the wrasse will there be issues. Something else? Thanks for the input |
#5
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![]() Quote:
dragon wrasses are awesome fish but im guessing you kow they doint look the same as adults and they are also nick named rock movers for a reason lol mine could smash off chunks and then pull them over him in the night to sleep. ![]() ![]() trigger will probably get to big but would be fine for a bit if you got one as a juvie. lawnmower blennys are better suited in established aquariums with algae ![]() ![]()
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#6
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![]() Why bother with fish that are gonna get to big for you? Seems like a waste to me. What you need to do is take a little info from here and a little from there and go with what makes sense to you. There's a lot of views out there on what to do and what not to! It's all about the common sense in the end. Good luck and hope to see pictures soon.
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206 gal tunze centre overflow star fire front illumina 260 Loudest part of my system would be the nagging sound I hear on a regular basis about how much time and money I spend on the tank. |
#7
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![]() if your worried about flow from the mag18 you can always install a ball avlve and choke it back slightly , if you come to edmonton i would exchange your 18 for a 12 im looking for a 18 for my new set up
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#8
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![]() Thanks for all the advice.
Planning on setting up a Q tank right away. Whats the best size/setup for a cheap Q tank. sponge or hob ect. LFS has a Dragon Wrasse in their display reef.Been there a while. Might be on my list for now(cool fish) Got time to think it over. Input on my plumbing would be great. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
for a qt tank it doesnt have to be huge its just some where to observe and treat if necessary . in a qt tank you can have liverock but just a small amout as you want to be able to see your fish.my qt is a 30g it has liverock in it and i add some pvc for added shelter. strong lights arent required. if you plan to use this tank as a hospital tank then your liverock will need to be removed as alot of medications will kill all life in it anyways. a basic qt tank could be 30g no sand or any substrate small amount of liverock heater/power head pvc for hiding places lights havent got to be expensive just something so your fish doesnt hide all the time and scare off every time you approach. water changes regulary ![]() pretty much the basics of what a tank can run off of ![]()
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#10
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![]() Hey Daveycoopa
Good point.Dragon wrasse off the list. What would you do with a 120 gal fowlr or any one else for stocking just to give me some ideas as I have some time before this tank is cycled. Thanks |