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#1
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![]() They'd work just fine. The only trick would be to find bulbs that size in the right colour temp, and they're not cheap (though probably not as bad as what you would pay at an LFS). The ballasts on those units are totally fine. They're tri-tap, so all that means is that you can hook them up to three different voltages (120/277/347) depending where you are using them (most industrial sites run off of 277 V or 347 V for large equipment). They'd work just fine in a house... you'd just need to make a decent cover to go over them so that you don't totally **** off the wife.
My father owns a commercial/industrial electrical company and I see these lights everytime I go down to the warehouse.. he's probably got 15 used ones just sitting there. Oh, if only I had the money and room to start another tank.... sigh |
#2
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![]() When you're using 400W halides you're sucking up a lot of power and even the best halide equipment is still very inefficient. For this reason you're better off investing in better reflectors that mount the bulb in the most efficient way for tank lighting. Of course this cheap alternative will work but you'll loose efficiency and it'll cost you more in the long run. It's also nice to have remote ballasts to keep them away from moisture.
So yes they work but IMO not worth the savings, the reflectors are useless so the ballast is the only really useful part. However paying $60 for a used industrial ballast makes little sense to me when you can get a new vertex for less than $150. |
#3
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![]() Quote:
Well $144.95 for a vertex balast only (no reflector or receptical) I think less than half the price for a full package that can possibly be modded might be worth it. Heck, whats $120 bucks. Imma try it. Stay tuned! (If he ever replies..)
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![]() They call it addiction for a reason... |
#4
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![]() Obviously you didn't understand a word I said. Good luck!
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#5
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![]() now we are talking about ballast,
I posted it once, but no responds. I have 2 coralive ballast (150 W) --- the once that come with the coralive mh fictures, as I have bin given these without the light unit itselve, I gust had in mind to put them on a pendant ore so. proublem is, thy bothe cant fire up a phounix bulb, while thy are for regular DE HQI lights. is there a way to mesure a ballast to check if thy are ok? could it be that the coralive units have some sort of capasitor build in the unit to fire up a bulb (ax I might be missing this than. it is gust fustrating to have the ballast sitting in a box, where I could use them. any input? |
#6
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![]() Quote:
The DE bulb is a pulse start one (there are only two main probes in it) and not fired by a capacitor or by a subprobe but by an ignitor. In your case, the ballasts built particularly for the coralife fixture have no ignitor in it. The ignitor is in the fixture. You can check by opening the metal box to take a look. If there is 3 items in it, then the smallest one with 3 wires ( usually green, yellow and red) attached to it is the ignitor. Otherwise you need to buy an ignitor (one for each ballast.) Most of the time, the ballast between 70-150 watt uses the same ignitor. Use the phase like "150 watt mh ignitor" to search on ebay or google. |
#7
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![]() those are the same as we use at the dry dock. They're tough and give a pretty good light spreed. The bulbs are the just nomal mougle, just find the right K.
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120 G sps reef, looking to build bigger. ![]() |