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#1
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210 Gallon slowly gaining population. Foxface, Naso, Coral Beauty, 2 Clowns, 2 Chromis, Orange Anthias, and Striped Goby. |
#2
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![]() How is 2x400 less power than 3x250?
The 400s are going to burn 800 watts and the 250s 750 watts? I'd stick with 250s myself. I know it's a dying breed but I've finally tracked down another hqi ballast for my tank. I can run my radiums as they were intended and down the road I can run a lower kelvin bulb and get super sweet par numbers. |
#3
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A vertex 250w consumes 263 and produces 52 ppfd for an output of 789watts at 156ppfd. Watts per ppfd 5 So for marginally more power consumption you are getting considerably more light. That is why I was questioning it. Maybe with 2 400 I can run the lights less consuming the same amount of electricity and get better results. Does that make sense or do you loose out because your are not getting as equal of coverage with only two. I also think that I don't put much in the last 4-5" on the extreme sides of the tank so I can still clean the glass. Last consideration is that 2 400W bulbs are less expensive that 3 250s. - Joe
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210 Gallon slowly gaining population. Foxface, Naso, Coral Beauty, 2 Clowns, 2 Chromis, Orange Anthias, and Striped Goby. |
#4
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![]() I am thinking that 3 of the lower wattage, will add up to better coverage overall. While providing a more evenly spread of light.
2 of the higher wattage would be a smaller footprint, and give you hot spots.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#5
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Like I said before it's more related to reflectors, bulb and ballast combinations over wattage. |
#6
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![]() Joe, it depends on what you want your tank to be. I get fine coverage and grow all sorts of high light stuff with 2x175W Vertex electronics running Iwasaki 15Ks under Lumenmax pendants. PPFD per watt, this is the most efficient set up according to Sanjay's figures using less electricity than 150W HQI system but putting out more PAR than some 250W systems:
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=59449 Understand that I have a mixed reef with lower light creatures too and my tank is on the shallow side for a 6-footer. Looks wise no one has ever noticed any dim spots. If you want a full out SPS garden, however, going with three 250W pendants is the better choice. You start getting diminshing rates of return once you hit 400W territory. You can have a closer look when you come by for you macro later this week. Last edited by fkshiu; 11-17-2010 at 08:15 PM. |
#7
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![]() Those Iwasaki bulbs on electronic ballasts are a PAR breaker...not typical! You can't get the same PAR using different bulbs on that ballast. As long as someone is happy to commit to that one single bulb, that's a great choice! Pricey bulb though...
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#8
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![]() That sums up my radium conundrum. You sorta gotta commit to run them proper. Unlike that 175w choice tho you're not quite as ltd as you will get awesome par out of a ton of 250w bulbs tho you may burn them out prematurely (unlike with the radium).
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#9
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Having said that, I still think you're better off keeping 3x250w over a 6' tank unless you get some sort of custom reflector for 2x400w that spreads the light over the 6' length, but doesn't spread it past the width of the tank. Now that would be interesting... Last edited by Myka; 11-17-2010 at 05:44 PM. |
#10
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![]() Sorry I wasn't thinking specific ballast data you used generic numbers so I thought I was missing something. My radium is a 250w and burns at around 333w so I fully get that. I always thought the e-ballast would use a little less. For example my same Radium on icecap uses 244W. Not sure if this was the old or newer icecap but I didn't think any e-ballasts overdrove bulbs.
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