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#1
11-11-2010, 09:19 PM
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Silicone will stick to cured silicone provided it's clean. This is strange myth which makes little sense. When building larger tanks with thicker glass it's actually best to do the seams in two steps to ensure it silicone cures throughout the seam.
The confusion must relate to the old silicone being contaminated or covered in algae and of course the silicone itself can be difficult to clean. So on the safe side it might be best not to rely on such a bond but realistically if you clean it, it'll be fine. You can use alcohol to clean the old silicone in the area where the new will overlap. If you don't agree or just unsure, try an experiment. Simply make a "goop" of silicone and let it cure, next apply some more to make another "goop" that attaches to it. Let that cure and see how strong the bond is. If it's really true that silicone won't stick to silicone (even sounds ridiculous) then you should never reseal a tank in the first place. This is because you can't remove all the silicone in a reliable way from the glass unless you use an actual chemical to remove it which you don't want to use unless you completely dismantle the tank. 
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#2
11-11-2010, 09:34 PM
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Sorry but I was just talking a contractor here about this and he says that silicone will not reliably stick to old silicone in typical applications such as bath tubs and showers. As a result you must always remove the old stuff first. This however does not mean actual silicone will not stick to silicone if it's clean. The problem again comes down to reliably cleaning it which isn't always possible and therefor any manufacturer of silicone advises that silicone won't stick to silicone which means the old must be removed, this is also often easier than cleaning the old stuff and you get a nicer looking seal.
So that's where the myth comes from, not so much a myth I guess but more like a better safe than sorry kind of thing. Sorry for any confusion from these posts but I do still believe you can safely get away with only sealing the verticals.
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#4
11-11-2010, 10:41 PM
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I would suggest better safe than sorry. If it was me, I would replace all of the outer seals in the tank.
I have always done that in any used tank that I've bought if there was one or two spots that looked like they "could" leak in the near future. You'll only be out a hour or two of your time and some additional silicone. Just a suggetion
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#5
11-11-2010, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
 But I am doing the whole thing, just to do it right...
__________________
Brad
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#6
11-12-2010, 12:07 AM
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I can't see any problem resealing a tank if the old bead is removed (nor why it would be weaker). When you remove the old joint you're just removing the filleting (unless disassembling), the actual thin bond is still there between the two pieces of glass. As for sticking, even if it didn't to the old silicone, it's only the ~1/16" seam, bead is still going to extend over either side and adhere to the glass.
__________________
my tank
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#7
11-15-2010, 07:59 AM
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sry for hyjacking your thread but if i reseal a tank should i redo the seam around my overflow or will cutting it off (silicone)at the overflow be safe for the bottom back seal or do i need to remove the overflow before resealing?
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#9
11-12-2010, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
 Im with Sphelps on the Silicone I did it and cleaned it with Alcohol and it was good to go .
__________________
180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think.
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#10
11-12-2010, 01:06 AM
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I think the filleted bit just protects critters, blades and stuff from hitting/nicking the actual bond seam. The entire inside of my tank was redone and it sure seems strong to me. It's extra work but if I was going to the trouble of redoing the verticals I'd just redo it all. Nice new and clean seams.
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