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#11
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![]() Yeah you're right, instead of investing in better equipment and avoiding finicky fish until the experience and equipment match the fish requirements it would be better to throw all your money into a larger tank. That would have saved him
![]() Bigger is not always better, in fact if your tank was larger you would have likely had more fish and lost a bigger investment. |
#12
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![]() As much as I enjoy the idea of trail and error (As our fish tanks are practically giant experiments) learning from others experience is a highly valuable tool in this hobby. Not only will it save you money and headaches but more importantly it will save the lives of the animals we care for.
As abrasive as these "people who didn't have love growing up" might be in the end they are the ones supporting proper aquarium husbandry. These are not rocks we are talking about, in the end they are living breathing animals just like ourselves. For fear of starting an ethics debate back onto topic ![]() If you are looking for an actual fix instead of a band-aid ensuring healthy plump fish is your best bet, Ich and most marine parasites take advantage of stressed fished because of their diminished slime coats. Adding fish slowly, ensuring they are healthy before they come home and feeding them a highly varied diet soaked in a vitamin supplement will ensure there health. Quote:
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Just a little bit of extra info before you run out and spend more money. Levi |
#13
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![]() +1 with zeolite. UV sterilizer ive stayed away from. im doing zeobak + biopellets
actually my first question when someone told me about a UV sterilizer was, WTF wont that kill the good stuff? |
#14
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![]() What does zeobak have to do with anything, is this guy using it?? If you're supplementing with bacterial type additive a UV will obviously interfere but if you're just starting out like I mentioned it's a good tool to have especially when a QT isn't being used. You don't have to use it forever, just when you need it.
Yes a UV will kill virtually anything that passes through it but yet what exactly would be considered beneficial? The amount of free swimming bacteria compared to the bacteria that attaches to surfaces is minuscule so it won't have an effect on your tanks ability to cycle waste. Other organisms are virtually useless to someone starting out and is just trying to get a fish population established. Sure once you have an established reef and want to start keeping fish and other animals that require these micro-organisms you don't want to run a UV very often but until then it's a good tool to have. It also obviously won't cure a fish with ich but talk to anyone who's had problems with ich and you'll learn it usually comes in waves. The fish will get ich and recover fine but it recovered by the use of it's slime coat which is now depleted. The second wave comes and the fish cannot usually recover. The UV HELPS prevent the second wave and other fish from being effected. Last edited by sphelps; 10-28-2010 at 07:20 PM. |
#15
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![]() You surely learned a good lesson there...QUARANTINE EVERYTHING!!! Especialy when you have a lot of fish, the risk of losing them all is much more. Because the ich can reproduce to huge proportion the more fish there are in the tank, the more potent it become.
If you lost all your fish from a disease that is SOOOO easily cured, imagine how fast you would lose them all if you had velvet??? Honestly though, you should have treated them. I feel very upset when I hear people say it's just ich it will go away on its own, but it does NOT. The fish might seem to be cured but their gills are infected, make no mistake and forcing them to live with that is not cool. When ever there is any sign of ich in an aquarium, I would take all the fish out, all of them, and treat them with hyposalinity for 4 weeks minimum and leave the display empty of fish for 8 weeks. I am looking forward to the day where people will realize that fish don't have to live with parasites and something must be done about it, if that ever happen ![]() I do a very long quarantine in hyposalinity to make sure my fish are clean because I don't want my fish to start to cover with ich parasites at the first sign of stress..and I don't want a potential disaster in my tank waiting to happen. Enough for the moral lesson, I would take all the remaining fish out and treat them with hyposalinity and leave that display tank fishless for at least 8 weeks. Each time you get a new fish make sure you do a minimum of 4 weeks quarantine in hyposalinity because the fish still might have ich even if it does not show sign of it. Only exception I would say is a mandarin, which need pods, but I would still quarantine that fish and take the opportunity to train it to eat frozen food. I did that with both of mine. Quote:
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#16
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are you still mad i said bigger is better? its really how you use it that counts.... |
#17
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As someone else already mentioned...the only sure way to eliminate it completely is to remove all fish from the tank for (12 weeks?), and treat/QT any fish that is going into the tank.
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400 gal reef. Established April, 2007. 3 Sequence Dart, RM12-4 skimmer, 2 x OM4Ways, Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown (pair), Blonde Naso Tang, Vlamingi Tang, Foxface Rabbit, Unicorn Tang, 2 Pakistani Butterflies and a few coral gobies My Tank: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436 |