To baffle or not to baffle?

PoonTang · #1 10-22-2010, 08:15 PM

You can use baffles to keep a steady level for your skimmer to operate at its best efficency and also to keep its bubbles out of the display. I would consider using reversed baffles like I do (see my build thread). It will keep the floaty scum from the DT in the skimmer chamber rather than skimming it off and sending it back to the tank, and because it takes water from the bottom of the chamber it filters out micro bubbles better. You can also get away with only having 2 baffles thus saving space.

StirCrazy · #2 10-23-2010, 05:21 PM

you need at least one baffle, especialy since you refuse to use anything larger than 5 gal for top off. if you have the whole thing baffleless when your float valve opens it will drain your top off container. so you need to baffel a level control area for your top off, also you need to make the water level where your skimmer is constant, so a baffle to keep the water the right high there. so you need two compartments at least. putting a single baffle in the last 1/3 of the sump will keep the water the right hight in the first 2/3rds of the tank for the skimmer and the last 1/3 will fluxuate with your evaporation.

Steve

christyf5 · #3 10-23-2010, 05:27 PM

No baffles on my 70gallon sump. The skimmer is at the opposite end to the return which works great but I have to throttle my return pump back to slowdown the incoming water (which is located "mid-sump) in order to avoid microbubbles. To solve this I just run a filter sock that gets changed weekly and no problemo. I don't worry about the level in the sump as its controlled by my autotopoff and controller

Binare · #4 10-24-2010, 12:54 AM

No baffles either. I make sure my drain pipe is completely submerged on both ends and let my ato take care of the level. I only run my sumps as refugiums.

Aquattro · #5 10-24-2010, 01:38 AM

Ya, I plan on plumbing my RO in full time for ATO, so level is taken care of there. Just the skimmer bubbles left to think about

StirCrazy · #6 10-24-2010, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aquattro

Ya, I plan on plumbing my RO in full time for ATO, so level is taken care of there.

Ok, so I am setting up a pool, $2.00 to enter. Pick the date Brad's sump overflows

Steve

Aquattro · #7 10-24-2010, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

Ok, so I am setting up a pool, $2.00 to enter. Pick the date Brad's sump overflows

Steve

You're just still bitter about flooding your garage. And driveway. And neighbourhood....-lol

My ATO will be plumbed through a timer, so it will only operate periodically throughout the day....

christyf5 · #8 10-24-2010, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aquattro

Ya, I plan on plumbing my RO in full time for ATO, so level is taken care of there.

I thought that was supposed to shorten the life of the membrane??

Aquattro · #9 10-24-2010, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyf5

I thought that was supposed to shorten the life of the membrane??

I haven't heard that, but I've never researched the technique. Not sure how it would, most RO units are plumbed under sink for drinking water, to fill a 5g resevoir...tank application seems to be the same principle??

sphelps · #10 10-25-2010, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christyf5

I thought that was supposed to shorten the life of the membrane??

Rapid shut off can cause cavitation in the membrane which can cause damage but a pressurized storage tank or accumulator eliminates this problem. So if you don't have a pressure tank or accumulator then you'll want to run your RO for longer periods of time less often to reduce the occurrence of possible damage.