Stand pics/examples?

jostafew · #1 10-22-2010, 04:41 AM

Mitch has the right idea. Composites and laminates are great for important structural components (like long spanning unsupported beams). Regular lumber is subject to grain and knot imperfections that create weakness. Of course you can always just beef up the lumber, but then you're losing valuable opening space into your sump area. I built my stand out of 3/4" oak ply, solid panels all around taking the load with a double-thickness laminated front panel that was cut away to allow access for sump etc. The laminate nature of the plywood with alternating grain direction make for very strong parts. I've got photos and solid models I can share if you like, but my particular design probly won't help much as it was designed for a tank that's 30" x 24" x 24". If I were doing a stand for a tank as long as yours I would design it with a support mid-span (front and back) and make the front support removeable. I have seen clever ways to take the load off the front-center brace of a stand while a sump is being serviced with a full tank still in place.

Aquattro · #2 10-22-2010, 04:57 AM

From a thread on RC, spanning 6 feet with a 2x6 won't require a vertical support mid span. So my design is a top rail of 2x6 on 2x4 verticals (2 each corner) plus additional support on the outside corners, as I'm making the stand longer than the tank. Then sheathing with 1/2" plywood, so strength should be fine. Not crazy about 6 inches on top, since it will block access to the skimmer cup a bit, but not a huge deal.

Borderjumper · #3 10-22-2010, 06:23 AM

We built ours using much the same design, but added a piece of plywood on the bottom. It kinda helps distribute the weight evenly on the floor AND we siliconed the joints and painted it with a couple of coats of marine paint. If we had a leak or overflow it would hold a few gallons of water without soaking the floor.

Aquattro · #4 10-22-2010, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Borderjumper

We built ours using much the same design, but added a piece of plywood on the bottom. It kinda helps distribute the weight evenly on the floor AND we siliconed the joints and painted it with a couple of coats of marine paint. If we had a leak or overflow it would hold a few gallons of water without soaking the floor.

Exactly my plan. Then I have to figure out how to level it, the floor isn't exactly flat

don.ald · #5 10-22-2010, 01:27 PM

go to HD and buy those plastic shims for leveling doors. work great! once the weight is on they wont move.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aquattro

Exactly my plan. Then I have to figure out how to level it, the floor isn't exactly flat

chris121277 · #6 10-22-2010, 02:28 PM

Here are a few shots of the stand I'm building right now

This cabinet on the side will have a hidden door that will house all my electrical

Tonight I'm install all the junction box's and routing all the wires.....and with any luck I'll get a chance to start skinning this week end

chris121277 · #7 10-22-2010, 02:33 PM

and if your interested, here are a few of my last one....I waaaay over built it....I bet the stand itself ways 150 pounds LOL

paddyob · #8 10-22-2010, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris121277

Here are a few shots of the stand I'm building right now

This cabinet on the side will have a hidden door that will house all my electrical

Tonight I'm install all the junction box's and routing all the wires.....and with any luck I'll get a chance to start skinning this week end

I really like the electrical box idea. I think I will do that with my own stand! I have been humming and hawing over what to do with the power bars.

Myka · #9 10-24-2010, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Borderjumper

we siliconed the joints and painted it

Be sure to use a paintable silicone (won't be 100% silicone) or just use indoor/outdoor caulking. I like DAP Alex Plus.