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Old 10-15-2010, 04:25 PM
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Thanks Chin, I guess you're right, I wasn't looking at weight distribution properly I may double up the 2x6 horizontals, that way I'll sleep too
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Old 10-16-2010, 02:12 PM
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Brad, if you're concerned about the horizontal span, order a glulam from Rona or somewhere. That's what I'm doing for my 8'.
Much stronger, no crowns, twists, warps.

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Old 10-22-2010, 04:41 AM
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Mitch has the right idea. Composites and laminates are great for important structural components (like long spanning unsupported beams). Regular lumber is subject to grain and knot imperfections that create weakness. Of course you can always just beef up the lumber, but then you're losing valuable opening space into your sump area. I built my stand out of 3/4" oak ply, solid panels all around taking the load with a double-thickness laminated front panel that was cut away to allow access for sump etc. The laminate nature of the plywood with alternating grain direction make for very strong parts. I've got photos and solid models I can share if you like, but my particular design probly won't help much as it was designed for a tank that's 30" x 24" x 24". If I were doing a stand for a tank as long as yours I would design it with a support mid-span (front and back) and make the front support removeable. I have seen clever ways to take the load off the front-center brace of a stand while a sump is being serviced with a full tank still in place.
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:57 AM
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From a thread on RC, spanning 6 feet with a 2x6 won't require a vertical support mid span. So my design is a top rail of 2x6 on 2x4 verticals (2 each corner) plus additional support on the outside corners, as I'm making the stand longer than the tank. Then sheathing with 1/2" plywood, so strength should be fine. Not crazy about 6 inches on top, since it will block access to the skimmer cup a bit, but not a huge deal.
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Old 10-22-2010, 06:23 AM
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We built ours using much the same design, but added a piece of plywood on the bottom. It kinda helps distribute the weight evenly on the floor AND we siliconed the joints and painted it with a couple of coats of marine paint. If we had a leak or overflow it would hold a few gallons of water without soaking the floor.
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Old 10-22-2010, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borderjumper View Post
We built ours using much the same design, but added a piece of plywood on the bottom. It kinda helps distribute the weight evenly on the floor AND we siliconed the joints and painted it with a couple of coats of marine paint. If we had a leak or overflow it would hold a few gallons of water without soaking the floor.
Exactly my plan. Then I have to figure out how to level it, the floor isn't exactly flat
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Old 10-22-2010, 01:27 PM
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go to HD and buy those plastic shims for leveling doors. work great! once the weight is on they wont move.
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Exactly my plan. Then I have to figure out how to level it, the floor isn't exactly flat
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Old 10-24-2010, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
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we siliconed the joints and painted it
Be sure to use a paintable silicone (won't be 100% silicone) or just use indoor/outdoor caulking. I like DAP Alex Plus.
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