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#1
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![]() ok thanks
thats what i was thinking i just was worried about it being stale and sitting creating a bad zone. let me go tune it down some more |
#2
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![]() http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4ORW67oyxk
tuned it down some more, i dunno its hard to really fine tune it. |
#3
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![]() Quote:
With how you have yours now, the bacteria has a chance to grow and can actually attach to the pellets. For everyone who is running pellets, think of it this way... If you were in a hurricane, could you hold on to something, well the same goes for the bacteria. You create a hurricane, they go bye bye. How big is your system, as you can probably have more running?
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#4
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![]() Quote:
On that note I just upgraded my pump so the pellets are really flying around, Rick you might be right in giving them some time to produce bacteria but I figure the more flow the more dissolved carbon = more bacteria in the tank = More colonization of all surface area. Just my 2 cents. |
#5
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#6
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![]() Quote:
Then again it's quite easy to see when someone has a bacterial bloom in the tank from slow flowing pellets. Perhaps we should get an OC expert on here to clear everything up for us? |
#7
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![]() Quote:
Again, my 2 cents also... I base it on what the manufacturer and research dictates, and from what I see in results. If you have any newer bags of NP Pellets, look for a sheet of paper in the bag, believe it or not they do now have instructions outlining use.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#8
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![]() Let me also outline a test I did a couple of times. This test was done to see if it had any good or bad results with the use of the NP BioPellets.
As instructed, I have the export from the reactors at the intake of the skimmer. This is to remove any excessive bacterial mulm and to re-oxygenate the water as the bacterial growth does use up oxygen in the water. My interpretation may not be 100% correct, but it is something like that. Anyways, I added a filter sock to the export from the reactors, and found that the sock itself would filter more when the flow of the reactor was slower than faster (meaning I had to change the sock more often when slower tumbling). So does this indicate better bacterial growth? I would think so, and the filter is taking more out, as there is more. Just wanted to give you all this example, I think it does tell a story on how better the pellets may work with slower tumbling/flow. Also, can anybody also state they got the instructions in the bag on the newer bags. Reason I ask is that many people are failing with these pellets, but in my opinion, failing because of not using them properly. So lets try to settle on proper usage and move forward with it. I don't have a scanner anymore, as I just upgraded to windows 7, so my scanner went to the recycle bin, but if someone can scan the paper that is in the bags, and then post it up, it would be very beneficial to everyone.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk Last edited by globaldesigns; 10-13-2010 at 01:02 AM. |
#9
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![]() I found a link that has the instructions that are coming in the NPX bags, this is the same as what I got in mine.
http://glassbox-design.com/2010/npx-bio-beads/ In the above link go half way down the page, in the blue box is the actual instructions. Please note it says "are best used within a fluidized reactor with enough flow to keep the top layer of Beads tumbling aggressively". I am trying to find some of the research articles I found, if I can find them again, I will paste for your reading enjoyment. Edit: here is a Link to a great article by Grumpy Old Reefer http://grumpyreefer.net/2010/02/08/n...-story-so-far/
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk Last edited by globaldesigns; 10-13-2010 at 01:27 AM. |