Lost my mind....or, here we go again!

[Aquattro]

Chin, I've got an in-sump skimmer. My current sump is baffled at 45/15 inches, and the 45 section holds the reactors, the smaller chamber contains to pickup for the return pump and the float valve. I'm hoping to use this sump if I can fit it in...

I'm going to have to go external plumbing, just found out the bottom is tempered, so that choice is made for me. I could minimize exposed stuff if I drill the back glass and have an overflow inside, but then I'd still need to be away from the wall, and if so, might as well go with external overflow. I think...

Oh, and I'm going with sand this time. It's going to be a display in the LR, so I'm going for the natural reef look. I also miss all the life in the sand, and GF wants a madarin

[SeaHorse_Fanatic]

Unless you custom build the tank, external overflows are very difficult to retrofit. How do you get the one section lower than the rest of the tank? A small internal box is much easier.

[reefwars]

could be a dumb question as ive never done it but could you remove the bottom panel and exchange it for the back if they are the same measurements or remove the bottom and add a different piece??? not sure how much it would cost but maybe something to consider so you have the tank you want

what are you doing to support the floor or is it on concrete??

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by SeaHorse_Fanatic

Unless you custom build the tank, external overflows are very difficult to retrofit. How do you get the one section lower than the rest of the tank? A small internal box is much easier.

I was thinking dremel?? I was told that it's not that difficult (never tried personally tho)

My current tank has a small overflow box internally, not really annoying, but I imagine the tank would be nicer without it

[Milad]

you can dremel glass?

[reefwars]

with a diamond tip blade you can cut just about anything with anything

[StirCrazy]

ok if that eurobrace to easy. it will just go along the top. so you make your overflow notch a little deeper as you will want the water below the euor brace anyways.

I would get sea star to make the notch while it is there. they have the tools to do it fast and if they have the tank apart while they do it then all the easier. they can just use there belt sander with silicon carbide abrasive and it will cut it in no time. they might even have a better tool to do it also. just ask them about it to find out. so I would make your notch 1.25" deep and say 12" long. if your using 1/2" for the euro brace this will give you a water level about 1/2" below the euro brace.

drilling your external overflow bottom for the bulkheads will be a lot simpler and allow for even neater plumbing than drilling the back of the tank, also reducing the space you need to leave behind the tank. as the overflow just has to be barly bigger than the dia of the bulkheads. if you go out the back of the tank you need your bulkhead thread or slip lenght, then the lenght of the 90 or "T" and space to install them. I would preinstall the bulkheads into the overflow bottom then assemble the overflow, the pipes inside the overflow can just be friction fit with slip and you will have enough room under to work what you want. this also allows your two or 3 pipes to run strait down into the stand for a very clean look with out a bunch of 90's and such.

how much flow are you planning on running through the sump from the tank? this will decide the bulkhead size for the herbie, remember under full syphon the pipe will flow more than if just gravity fed with air also. so you would have to see what people running herbies are using for bulkhead sizes and what there return pump is so you can figure out what you need.

Steve

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Aquattro

I was thinking dremel?? I was told that it's not that difficult (never tried personally tho)

My current tank has a small overflow box internally, not really annoying, but I imagine the tank would be nicer without it

I used a dremmel on mine after I notched it with a glass cutter to even it out. you need the expensive diamond bits and you need the extender whip that lets you use it like a pen grinder as you need to have water running on the glass constantly to prevent it from getting hot.

Brad, I was just thinking.. where exactly in the house are you putting this?

Steve

[Aquattro]

Steve, Seastar won't cut a notch, only drill holes. And I don't need to take the tank apart, just reseal the corners.

Drains will likely be 1" pipes for the herbie, I'll be running maybe 1000gph, probably less.

Tank is going in the living room, against the wall backing onto the kitchen. Or it's going into the bathroom of the suite, depends on weight

[freezetyle]

if you want to see the noise level on a "beananimal" overflow i am getting a tank this weekend with it. you are free to come and see if the noise level ease of setting it up would be worth it for you.