Bioload 75 - Reef Aquarium

[bioload]

As I mentioned before the number of turns required to remove the collection cup was somewhat annoying at times. It did not required a lot of height to be removed but I'll try another mod this time by shaving down the threads. This was done once again on the router table with the bearing removed from the flush trim bit. You can also use a straight bit but I was too lazy to swap it out.

I placed the piece against the fence of the router table (turn on the router first!!), and made light cuts rotating the piece each time adjusting the fence.

Setting the fence for the initial cut



Finished piece. I had to keep checking the threads on the cleanout to ensure that I didn't take too much off. When I was done there was less than a 1/4 turn in order to connect the two pieces, and get a tight fit with the gasket....forgot to mention that the plugs also come with a gasket.



This completes one half of the union/flange that will be attached to the top of the skimmer body.

[bioload]

The cleanout was simple cut on the miter saw leaving only the tread portion. I could have made the cut thinner but would like to keep all my fingers.



Once that was done I followed the same process as I did for the plug using the router. Before I could do that though I needed to get rid of those little "bumps" on the side. If I didn't I would not be able to rotate the piece on edge. I adjusted the fence to the right distance, and rotated across the bit.



and here is the completed flange/union....which is it by the way?

[bioload]

Here is a shot of the body about to be solvent welded. Nothing special....just place it on the sheet and weld.



Almost forgot.....I usually add some weight before gluing....oops "welding". Paint cans come in handy. P.S. I use Benjamin Moore.....no matter what the guys at HD say .....This was some of the cheap stuff the builder left behind.



Excuse my foam job on the door in the background....that stuff goes a long way!

Off to the router table again. After about an hour or so I cut out the tube making sure I put the bearing back on the flush bit.....it's so easy to forget. I usually place masking tape on the tube if it didn't come with any protective film, which all of the ones I've ever receive didn't have.

[bioload]

A couple teaser shots of what is starting to look like a skimmer .........time to get some sleep, and figure out a way to bend the top into a straight cone.





Did I mention that this build would be Pic Intense

[bioload]

Did some work on the collection cup this morning. Sorry in advance for the breif descriptions....Got to get the kids luch before it's off to the day job.

Some 4" acrylic tubing was cut for the riser



Preped the edge of the rise on the router



Welded the rise to 1/4" sheet



Cut out the center using a hole saw



Finished off the hole with the router

[bioload]

Welded the collection cup to the acrylic sheet....make sure ther riser is centered



Cut out the collection cup from the sheet with a 1/4" roundover bit....I like the finish is gives.



Remember the pylon I posted earlier.......a sneak peak of the next project where I'll try some vacuum thermoforming. Should be the cheapest body (approx $5.00) if I can get it right

[Duey]

Your fabrication skills are immaculate!!!

[TJSlayer]

Wow very cool....

I would never have the patience to do it myself, but very cool none the less....

TJ

[bioload]

Tool Tip:

To cut circles out I would recommend the Jasper circle jigs. They manufacture several templates, guides, and jigs that work really well.

Here are a few shots....I use the 200 and 400 models that can mount right onto the router table.

[bioload]

I tried thermoforming the top of the skimmer body to provide a transition between the body and the collection cup, but it didn't turn out too well so I won't go through all the steps. Here a few shots that outline the basic process (which still needs some work).

I made a box that would fit over the skimmer to heat the top using a heat gun. The temperature inside gets pretty hot during the initial tests! I believe the range for acrylic is around 300F.



I placed the box over the top of the skimmer and heated for approx 20min at 300F. Here is a pic with the lid off. I used the lid as a damper, leaving a gap, to regulate the temperature inside the box. A baffle was placed inside the box to prevent overheating the acrylic.



There was a mold on the inside of the skimmer which I made from foam to mold the shape. However, the acrylic would just not bend the way I would like it too. Eventually a gap started forming between the top of the chamber and the PVC union.



The top was cut off and a new one welded back to the skimmer. I will go with a flat top for now.