New Chinese LED fixture

ReefOcean · #1 08-27-2010, 03:22 AM

Yeah, i will post more pictures when i have a chance.

I do not believe it is a dumbed down Pacific Sun. There is a Polish company that has almost the exact same light but added blue tooth and dimming features for around 800 a unit.

Maxspect is probably the closest comparrison.

ReefOcean · #2 08-27-2010, 03:36 AM

actually I am wrong, this is probably a dumbed down versian of every LED system on the market without a dimmer and a computer.

mseepman · #3 08-30-2010, 02:45 AM

So what are your thoughts now that it's been running a few days?

StirCrazy · #4 08-30-2010, 04:01 PM

The PAR output seams to be about 1/2 of a good 3 watt system, but havign said that if your not keeping SPS and you have a tank under 16" deep it should be good.

Steve

mseepman · #5 08-30-2010, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

The PAR output seams to be about 1/2 of a good 3 watt system, but havign said that if your not keeping SPS and you have a tank under 16" deep it should be good.

Steve

Steve, do you have one as well? Is it just the generic one shown in this thread?

Ron99 · #6 08-30-2010, 04:47 PM

Wish you had asked about these before buying one. They are not well built. The heatsinks are very thin and barely adequate for the job, hence running three fans for such a small unit. These units run on the ragged edge of thermal reliability and if your ambient temperature gets to high or a fan goes out or they start to plug up from dust you can easily overheat the LEDs reducing their output and shortening their useful life.

Also, the driver circuitry is not very good AFIK. I believe these are voltage driven rather then current driven which is a less reliable (but probably cheaper) method of doing the job but can also make these prone to early failure.

But I guess they are inexpensive

I wouldn't compare these to Maxspect. The Maxspect are much much much better then these.

ReefOcean · #7 08-31-2010, 03:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron99

Wish you had asked about these before buying one. They are not well built. The heatsinks are very thin and barely adequate for the job, hence running three fans for such a small unit. These units run on the ragged edge of thermal reliability and if your ambient temperature gets to high or a fan goes out or they start to plug up from dust you can easily overheat the LEDs reducing their output and shortening their useful life.

Also, the driver circuitry is not very good AFIK. I believe these are voltage driven rather then current driven which is a less reliable (but probably cheaper) method of doing the job but can also make these prone to early failure.

But I guess they are inexpensive

I wouldn't compare these to Maxspect. The Maxspect are much much much better then these.

I assume you owned one?

Yes, heat sinks are thin, the fans could get jammed with dust but so could any fan. As far as current/voltage goes that is over my head but wjhen i was researching a dIY LED fixture I was under the impression that all LEDS ran on current.

Seeing how i have never held a maxpect i cannot comment. i was just linking the country of origin of the 2 fixtures.

But yes, it is a cheap unit. This is why i bought it. I have heard good things about the company and their product. So far i cannot complain. I don't have the cash to blow on a Vertex or an aqua Illuminations. Frankly, I can't see myself ever spending 1500 plus on a lighting system when there are cheaper alternatives to try.

...I have a feeling this fixture will be Odyssea MH fixture of the 2010's LOL. I am waiting for the fire.

ReefOcean · #8 08-31-2010, 02:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

The PAR output seams to be about 1/2 of a good 3 watt system, but havign said that if your not keeping SPS and you have a tank under 16" deep it should be good.

Steve

Many people keep SPS under this secific light. A 3 watt system (I am assuming you are talking about the defunct polaris, the aquaillumina and the vertex) are better at busting out PAR, but depending on the light placement and coral placement it can easily match a 250 halide.

StirCrazy · #9 08-31-2010, 03:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ReefOcean

Many people keep SPS under this secific light. A 3 watt system (I am assuming you are talking about the defunct polaris, the aquaillumina and the vertex) are better at busting out PAR, but depending on the light placement and coral placement it can easily match a 250 halide.

that won't come any where near the output of a 250 watt MH. if you look at the link you put up there PAR at 40 CM was 125, frankly this sucks. my 250 watt MH have a PAR of 400 at 60 CM so saying this comes close to 250 watt outputs is streaching it if not a blatient lie. I supose if you had a 2 year old MH bulb driven off a probe start ballast and a junky reflector it would be close. in fact the readings you are using for reference say older bulbs with salt creep on them.

I wasn't refering to the solarius or any others, but rather to all the home made ones that have been comming out int he last year using cree 3W LEDs and good drives. thoes ones with optics are meeting or exceding 250 watt MH levels at 18" (45cm)

people keep SPS under NO tubes also, they grow real slow, are close to the top and are for the most part brown.
If you keep your sps in the top 8" of the tank with that light they will do ok, in the top 4" they will do good, but they arn't going to be a show piece under that light plain and simple, but there are always the exceptions.

Steve

ReefOcean · #10 08-31-2010, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

that won't come any where near the output of a 250 watt MH. if you look at the link you put up there PAR at 40 CM was 125, frankly this sucks. my 250 watt MH have a PAR of 400 at 60 CM so saying this comes close to 250 watt outputs is streaching it if not a blatient lie. I supose if you had a 2 year old MH bulb driven off a probe start ballast and a junky reflector it would be close. in fact the readings you are using for reference say older bulbs with salt creep on them.

I wasn't refering to the solarius or any others, but rather to all the home made ones that have been comming out int he last year using cree 3W LEDs and good drives. thoes ones with optics are meeting or exceding 250 watt MH levels at 18" (45cm)

people keep SPS under NO tubes also, they grow real slow, are close to the top and are for the most part brown.
If you keep your sps in the top 8" of the tank with that light they will do ok, in the top 4" they will do good, but they arn't going to be a show piece under that light plain and simple, but there are always the exceptions.

Steve

according to Lukeys second reading, the par at 10cm in 365, crossing that with the 250 MH data posted on the sames page that matches, if not betters the 250 at that depth. Obviously, the led has some penetration issues and the par drops off at about 20cm. For my purpose, it matches. Not for a 30 inch tank though. If my coral was at 30 inches, it would be 15 inches below my tank. I think you are being a bit over dramatic about the whole sucking issue... old salt covered bulbs and whatnot.