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Old 08-20-2010, 02:57 PM
JonT JonT is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jphong View Post
It will be for the RO reservoir only so not salt there, plus its for freshwater setups I have. But even without the salt Im sure it will rust in the long run sitting in the reservoir. I also saw some beads of glue/bonding agent on the base of the pump that made me weary to buy it.
With or without salt...

Water is the most solvent liquid on the planet. It tries to absorb everything. So, take your RO water, that you have removed all dissolved solids from (0 TDS right?) and now you have a liquid that is ready to absorb everything it can.

If you think I am full of it... Take a small piece of your live rock, and toss it in your holding tub. Wait a month or so, then go look. I bet you have a bunch of mush around the rock (if the rock is even left). The water is taking up the calcium, and other elements from the rock.
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:17 PM
jphong jphong is offline
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Okay thanks for the advice Ill be sure to look into whatever pump I end up getting!
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  #3  
Old 08-20-2010, 03:31 PM
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mike31154 mike31154 is offline
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If the 25 ft distance between the two is mostly horizontal, you shouldn't need a large pump, a powerhead might even do the job. Do a search for 'head' calculator and you should come up with plenty of info on pump sizing with respect to their ability to deal with 'head', which is mainly friction in the form of distance through a given diameter of pipe and more importantly, the height that needs to be overcome. Some pumps are 'flow' biased, whereas others are specifically designed to deal better with high head pressure. A few feet of vertical pipe will quickly kill the performance of a flow biased pump.

As far as the dire warnings regarding caustic/corrosive liquids and sump pumps, just think of what your average sump pump sits in 24/7 in people's homes that have them hooked into their septic system. Most of them are designed to deal well with these type of fluids without rusting out, although with salt water, you may have to be more careful. They pretty much have to label them appropriately with warnings as to the suitability for certain fluids. Just check the specifications of the components carefully before thinking of using something like that on your system. Worst case, you could always use the sump and replace the pump that comes with it with one that's designed to handle corrosive fluids.

The glue/bonding agent you saw may be a pro rather than a con. It's more than likely an epoxy to seal and waterproof the pump casing. Epoxy is totally inert once cured, many of us use it to glue coral frags to plugs and live rock.
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Last edited by mike31154; 08-20-2010 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 08-20-2010, 05:10 PM
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Slick Fork Slick Fork is offline
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Don't worry about getting a huge pump... in my experience a bigger pump means more water on the floor when the hose you balance slips off and starts spewing everywhere.
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Old 08-20-2010, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonT View Post
With or without salt...

Water is the most solvent liquid on the planet. It tries to absorb everything. So, take your RO water, that you have removed all dissolved solids from (0 TDS right?) and now you have a liquid that is ready to absorb everything it can.

If you think I am full of it... Take a small piece of your live rock, and toss it in your holding tub. Wait a month or so, then go look. I bet you have a bunch of mush around the rock (if the rock is even left). The water is taking up the calcium, and other elements from the rock.
mmmm...
rock mush.
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