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#1
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![]() I'm only on day two of the pellet experiment. My tank looks quite a bit cloudier than normal and the skimmer is pulling more than it generally does. Some of the coral look a bit off while others look perfectly normal.
On a side note my Seachem KH test kit ran out today so I switched to a new Elos one. On my Seachem kit I was told that my tanks alkalinity was 8 dkh. On the Elos one it says 12.5 dkh! I don't know about you but that is a huge difference in my opinion. So I'm shutting off the flow of CO2 to my calcium reactor until it comes down to at least 10 dkh. In the mean time I'm going to try and find someone else in town with a test kit that I can reference mine against.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#2
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![]() OK here are a couple of ideas regarding the lack of reliability of kH test kits.
My Salifert kH test kit came with a reference standard to check the kH test results against. If no one in town has a reference standard to lend you, I can bring one out next time I am in town. The other idea is to use a pH monitor (recently calibrated against known standards) to measure the pH of a sample of tank water that has been aerated outdoors for a few hours. By aerating the water sample, the concentration of CO2 in the water will be equal to the concentration in the atmosphere. Since carbonate/bicarbonate is the predominant buffer system in seawater, you can take the pH and the concentration of CO2, and calculate the kH. By using both these methods you should be able to come to some approximation of how accurate your kH test kit is.
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120 gallon sps/anemones/LPS reef since 2004 Apex controller 8 x 54 watt T5 PowerModule Herbie's silent overflow system Jebao DC 12000 return pump Jecod CP-40 Cross-flow circulation device Mini Bubble King 180 Barr Aquatics calcium reactor Bucket fuge |
#3
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![]() A lot of coral looks ****ed off this morning and some of the fish aren't breathing right so I'm going to take some of the pellets out so that I only have 250ml running and do a water change.
I dont think I'll have a problem finding someone in town with a KH kit that I can try but thanks for the idea.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#4
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![]() Hey, I haven't used the Vertex Pellets, but with NP BioPellets they need to be tumbling very aggressively... I may be incorrect, but doesn't the Vertex ones need to be used in the same way? I see that you have your reactor stuffed, with no room to move.
If the Vertex are on the same principle as NP BioPellets, then the reactor is just going to get bunged up with mulm and garbage... I would suggest removing half of them and get them really moving around. This is way I use 3 reactors in my setup, with about 1 litre in each, and have them going crazy (tumbling and whipping around). I hope this helps, If the vertex pellets are different, please enlighten us all. Thanks.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#5
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![]() No they all tubling. I posted a picture and not a video so its hard to tell. I guess I could take a snap of them with the pump off and then with the pump on so that you could see... But I've already made some changes and removed a lot so there isn't really any point now. With the amount that was in there the reactor was about 2/3 full with the pump off. With the pump on it looks like its completely full.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#6
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![]() Quote:
Not saying you have to do this, but I run 3 liters on my system (180G, with 100G sump/refuge) How much are you running, maybe run more. I know I run alot for my system, but I have researched that it is quite hard to overdose on these, and since I have a big bioload, I found what I run to be working well.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#7
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![]() I had posted that I was running the minimum recommended amount for my systems net water volume which was 400ml. However I just removed some this morning because some things in the tank didn't look so good. So now there is just 250ml. Yes I'm kind of paranoid but I think that trait has helped me to avoid a lot of disasters already. If everything starts looking better I'll go back up to 400ml eventually. If I try to fit any more I'll need another reactor. And since Nitrate and Phosphate are already undetectable in my system and my bioload isn't too bad I don't think I'll be doing that.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |