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#1
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![]() So I am upgrading/downsizing my current sumpless system to a smaller system with a sump/fuge in the next month or so. I have a few questions that I am a little embarrassed to ask .
I don’t have my new system yet, as it is still being built so I can’t provide any pics but a few details are. Drilled glass tank corner overflow into a sump with 3 baffles, one section for fuge. 1. Water Changes - Do I pull water from the DT or the Sump? - Do I add top off/ new salt water to the DT or Sump - Do I turn off all the pumps/skimmer while changing water? - Water Line Calculation for making sure I have enough room in my sump incase the power goes out? 2. Sump sections? - What order should they go in? (IE Media Bags -> Skimmer -> Fuge)? I am sure I will have more when I get the system delivered. Thanks a bunch. |
#2
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![]() I can help you with a copule questions, first of all u need to pull wate from the DT or else you'd only be circulating the water in the sump and you'd add top off water to where you want but keeping in Mind the float switch would have to be left in the display tank! Hope this helps and ifnim wrong with anything anyone correct me!
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ~*~*Stefan*~*~ Formally known as Svaningen 35 gallon Red Sea Max Only 16 years old!!!! ![]() ![]() CALL AFTER 3:00 ON WEEKDAYS. 604 782 3313 Last edited by TheKid; 07-14-2010 at 08:52 PM. |
#3
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![]() The setup and maintenace I do is as follows. Shut the pumps off use a turkey baster and blast the sand and LR so you get lots of floating debry then siphon water from the DT. Next is turn on the pumps and add the new water to your sump slowly not to overflow your sump. If you dose do it in the sump (chamber 3) at 10 min intervals to allow for different chemicals to get filtered through. As far as the sump build goes this is my setup, chamber 1 has a drilled tupperware cup with my chemical filtration baggies (carbon,purigen) to force the water through, my thermometer, and my Skimmer. Chamber 2 is my refugium and chamber 3 is my return pump. as for mesurments maybe I fluked out but my first baffle (chamber1) is from the top and I have a 1inch space from the bottom. Baffle 2 has 3/4inch space from the first one has a 2inche space from the top of the tank, and Baffle 3 HAS TO BE at least 1/2 inch shorter than baffle 2 for good flow. I think mine was 9 inches (B2) and 8 inch (B3) this was for a 10gallon sump. I place fliterfloss in between baffles 1 and 2 to prevent micro bubbles and all runs smoothly.
This may not be how everyone builds there sump but it works well and took me a day to build. Cheers |
#4
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![]() find a reefer near you and ask if you could come over and talk.
and it always pays to see what they are doing. give you ideas on what to do. and it will help you plan what you are going to have.(i.e) softies lps sps
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36x18x20 (50gal) tek 6x39watt t5,s. 2x 6025 tunze. euro-reef rs100. no more school so i,ll be able to keep this one! http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=61329 |
#5
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![]() Figure out how much water will drain from the DT via overflow and/or return line back-siphoning. Make sure your sump can handle this much water without flooding. And vice versa, make sure the DT can handle the amount of water contained in your return section of the sump. This way you are covered for power outages and drain clogs. A 1/4" hole drilled in the return line/lines just below the water line of the DT will act as a siphon break.
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225g reef |
#6
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![]() Thanks for the replies. This gives me a bit more information to discuss when they come to set it all up.
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#7
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![]() who,s setting it up!
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36x18x20 (50gal) tek 6x39watt t5,s. 2x 6025 tunze. euro-reef rs100. no more school so i,ll be able to keep this one! http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=61329 |
#8
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![]() Definitely go find other people with tanks and have a look and a discussion about what they like and, as importantly, what they don't like about their sump set up.
A very important consideration is the amount of water in the return pump section of the sump. That's where you will see the water level fluctuate due to evaporation, if you don't have enough capacity in there you may lose the ability to leave the tank for a day or two without top-up. Evaporation that may seem insignificant against the size of the system as a whole may be enough to leave your return pump running bone-dry |
#9
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![]() I like to put a check valve in my return line. You can buy PVC models. This prevents any siphoning when you turn off your return pump or if the power goes out. Very little water will flow back into your sump.
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#10
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![]() @SaltyNuts - The folks at Marine Aquaria are building it for me.
Here I thought going to a sump system was going to simplify things for me. ![]() |