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#1
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![]() realize there more to being green than saving money, but at a dollar something for cubic meter (plus sewer cost as based on water in) my waste just goes down the drain.
Had thought about sending to the rain barrel for summer but since it's stays pretty full just with the rain, effectively I'd just be dumping the waste anyways. Related question though, how for can you run the 1/4" OD waste water line without causing back pressure problems to the ro unit?
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my tank |
#2
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![]() Quote:
If you were concerned about it, then run 3/8 hose vs 1/4.
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250 BB Starphire SPS, clams, & zoos 3 x 250 DE, IC 660 W/T5s OM 4-way, Hammerhead Pump Calcium, Kalk, RO filters, magnesium, Excellent prices |
#3
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![]() One of these systems will pump the waste water into your hot water tank. http://bwiplumbing.com/index.php/aqu...retro-kit.html
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#4
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![]() Waste water runs into a 70+ Gallon Retention tank. Shur-flo pump to a small pressure tank plumbed as an expansion tank tee'd into the supply for the main toilet in the house. Valves on both feeds to isolate the toilet from either the house supply or the RO waste supply when the other is in use. Also plumb a high level overflow to the drain in the case of the waste water filling the retention tank. Can also be used to run other things but the more usage needed the bigger pump and therefore more expense in supplying the water for those uses from the retention tank.
Scott |
#5
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![]() Quote:
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#6
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![]() Very doable for a DIY'er. Head pressure isn't going to factor the same way as a constant flow pumping situation since you'll be using a pressure tank to generate the pressure during flow.
The shur-flo pumps that i'm referring to are going to be similar to the pump that would be used in a small RV for water supply. They come with an internal pressure switch that will deactivate the pump at typical line pressure. Something along the lines of 40-70 psi. The pump isn't able to supply the 1/2 inch line at the same flow as a house supply so we also tee in a small captive bladder pressure tank (1-2 gallon or enough to supply just more than one flush). The toilet gets flushed and the pressurized storage from the tank supplies the replacement water for the back of the toilet tank. At the lowering of pressure the pump turns on refilling the pressure tank. Pressure builds back up to the set point of the pressure switch on the pump. Toilet's are a good consumption point for this waste water since it will be high in mineral content and they aren't too finicky. Nor do they tend to suffer from mineral build up. Enjoy! |
#7
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![]() Oh and another tip for anyone using a RO or RO/DI system. Adding a booster pump to the feed of the unit will increase the efficiency and increase the product by a large degree. It can be a far more attractive option than spending the big bucks for a larger RO/DI system.
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#8
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![]() Thanks for the info, very helpful. I may be saying goodbye to lugging buckets next winter.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |