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#1
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![]() Quote:
Test first, silicates may not even be your problem. |
#2
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![]() you need complete blackness in the tank for 3 or 4 days. Pitch Black, and don't feed during that time. Large motorcycle covers work well.
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Last tank was 210 reef with 90 gal sump 120 , lps. 2xKessil A350W Tuna Blues, 2xvortech mp40 for flow,aqualogic 1/4 hp chiller, 160 lbs live rock. sohal, , pair of percs,flame dotty back , royal gramma, pair of black percs, niger trigger, mandarin 55 corner bowfront freshwater, African cichlids kessil a350 30 gal 36x36 coffee table fish tank. 3 red ear sliders. 5.5 gal nano, live rock, arrow crab, baby perc, firefish. |
#3
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![]() Been 2 weeks. Still no progress. Got my PH up to 8.4 for a couple weeks now, syphoned out all dino's and did a 48 hr period of total darkness (towels). 3 days later dino's back in full force.
Todays tests were done at the LFS to insure my test kits at home were accurate. Today I tested for silicates in both my RO water and tank water. Test was extremely low (less than .03) to nothing. Nitrates and phosphates are still zero (never had any color register in my salifert tests). Alk 9.5, Ca 450 and mag at 1400. Last edited by Werbo; 05-21-2010 at 09:54 PM. |
#4
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![]() Anybody have success stories with dino's.
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#5
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![]() I'm a little baffled, sounds like we have covered all of the bases. There are no excess nutrients in the water column so you should have no algae growth. I would say that your liverock is leaching something back into your tank but your tests are showing nothing. Your flow is perfect, your lights are good, your not over feeding and your running the correct filters.
Interesting... Any odd additives you are using that might result in it? |
#6
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![]() After the initial dino outbreak (4 months ago) I began the n/p pellets. I've had the n/p pellets running for 2+ months now. 6 weeks ago I began Brightwell Aquatics Microbacter 7 (MB7). Nothing has slowed down the dinos.
Nothing would be leaching from live rock as it is thourghly cooked. I had no algae or nitrate/phosphate issues in the first 8-10 months the tank was in operation. |
#7
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![]() Anyone know of a product specifically designed to remove silicates from a reef tank? I bought ROWA-PHOS today as it is suppost ro remove both phospahtes and silicates.
Anyone know of something better for just silicates? |
#8
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![]() Dinos are one of the biggest pain in the butt algaes to deal with, sometimes all the "tried and true" things that people do work for some but not for others. I know I tried everything people told me to: high pH, high alk, low alk, adding a refugium, increasing skimming, decreasing photoperiod, blacked out tank for 2 days, blacked out tank for 4 days (this just succeeded in killing most of the corals, SPS anyways), increasing magnesium, replacing the sandbed...the list went on and on.
I dunno what to tell you, sometimes its good to keep trying but other times, well, you just need to see the writing on the wall and tear the tank down and start over. I fought dinoflagellates for a year before I clued in that nothing I did was going to kill them. As a last ditch effort before I left the hobby I removed the sandbed altogether and powerwashed rock. I haven't seen the dinos since. Sadly, that is my "success" story.
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#9
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![]() Christy - Thanks. Your pretty experience in this hobby as you have had many battles with many pests as I remember from your TOTM article. After 4 months I am beginning to feel like throwing in the towel. If i didn't have $800-$1000 in sps frags I'd give up but I'm not quite ready to give up yet. I may start doing more frequent syphoning and daily basting of the rocks.
At this point I am not seeing any progress. |