48" LED Array - Up and Running...Mostly

Ron99 · #1 03-20-2010, 05:59 PM

I would be really hesitant to use an MC-E over a 10 gallon tank. Even without optics you might burn your corals. Without optics you won't get much of a spotlight effect as the LEDs emit over about 120 degree angle. But even so they produce a hotspot under the emitter, even without optics. If you want a spotlight effect you would be better off using a small array of XR-Es with 60 degree optics. And as Steve said, the MC-E may wash out your blues. There is a reason that both DIY guys and commercial companies don't use the MC-E. I see what you're thinking but I have my doubts it will work as you plan.

BlueAbyss · #2 03-21-2010, 03:31 AM

I see what you're all saying. I'm sort of tempted to use a single MC-E as a plant grow light though, I'll bet it will make for some stocky seedlings (like metal halide)... something to explore. But I see what you're saying about having it over a 10 gallon... not enough depth, I suppose you would need a fairly deep tank to make it worth it.

Alright, XR-Es it is! I still want to run them at a lower mA though.

Ron99 · #3 03-21-2010, 08:20 PM

Have the first row of LEDs wired up:

Here's a close up shot:

And the moment of truth...

The whites fired up:

And blues fired up:

They're bloody bright! Can't look directly at them.

The Codfather · #4 03-21-2010, 08:39 PM

Nice.

Ron99 · #5 03-21-2010, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueAbyss

I see what you're all saying. I'm sort of tempted to use a single MC-E as a plant grow light though, I'll bet it will make for some stocky seedlings (like metal halide)... something to explore. But I see what you're saying about having it over a 10 gallon... not enough depth, I suppose you would need a fairly deep tank to make it worth it.

Alright, XR-Es it is! I still want to run them at a lower mA though.

I run XR-Es at 350mA on my 3 gallon pico. So you could run probably 500mA with optics and have enough PAR for SPS in a 10 gallon. I will be borrowing a PAR meter shortly and will measure PAR in the pico running 350mA and no optics for reference.

StirCrazy · #6 03-21-2010, 09:45 PM

hey Ron, have you decided how your going to run the maxwell dimming from the andurino? Never mind I see you used the PWM models. but how do you configure the signal from dimming in these ones?

Steve

Ron99 · #7 03-21-2010, 10:13 PM

Still needs a bit of extra circuitry as the Arduino puts out a 5V PWM signal and the Meanwell needs 10V. So it requires a 12V DC supply, a voltage regulator to get 10V, and a transistor that applies the 5V PWM from the Arduino to the 10V line.

Now I imagine you will ask why not just use a 10V DC supply without the voltage regulator? Most 10V AC/DC converters are not 10V. Some can be less but often they can be more; closer to 12V even. But the Meanwell dimming circuit is very sensitive and anything above something like 10.6 or 10.8 V will fry it so I want to make sure I have a steady 10V for the dimming. I may also use the same 12V converter to supply 5V with a voltage regulator to power the Arduino too rather than have a separate 5V supply for that.

StirCrazy · #8 03-22-2010, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron99

Still needs a bit of extra circuitry as the Arduino puts out a 5V PWM signal and the Meanwell needs 10V. So it requires a 12V DC supply, a voltage regulator to get 10V, and a transistor that applies the 5V PWM from the Arduino to the 10V line.

um, thats stupid, I figured the PWM models would be based on 5V as there is only need for a pulsed signal not a voltage.. oh well.

Steve

StirCrazy · #9 03-22-2010, 02:56 PM

Ron, what about using a 10V power supply to power the arduino, and then taking the power from your 9V out wich will actualy be 10V. this will eliminate that need of another power supply as I can't imagin you need much of any current for the PWM.

Steve

byee · #10 04-03-2010, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron99

Still needs a bit of extra circuitry as the Arduino puts out a 5V PWM signal and the Meanwell needs 10V. So it requires a 12V DC supply, a voltage regulator to get 10V, and a transistor that applies the 5V PWM from the Arduino to the 10V line.

Now I imagine you will ask why not just use a 10V DC supply without the voltage regulator? Most 10V AC/DC converters are not 10V. Some can be less but often they can be more; closer to 12V even. But the Meanwell dimming circuit is very sensitive and anything above something like 10.6 or 10.8 V will fry it so I want to make sure I have a steady 10V for the dimming. I may also use the same 12V converter to supply 5V with a voltage regulator to power the Arduino too rather than have a separate 5V supply for that.

Ron99,

The max voltage for the Arduino is 9VDC. There is also an onboard voltage regulator which will regulate the voltage down to 5VDC for the electronics.

May need the use of OP amps to drive the Meanwell LED driver. Vancouver Reefer (Canreef member) may have something since he's been down this path with his setup. I believe he used the LED Pucks which is similar to the Meanwell.

There are also other threads on about LED lighting on some of the other aquarium forums.

I've also been toying with the idea of using the Arduino as a platform for my aquarium controller - pH, temperature and lighting.

Good luck!