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Old 03-08-2010, 09:28 PM
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No problem, I know it may sound strange, drilling a hole in somehting that's draining water, but sometimes they drain water TOO well LOL. need some air to slow them down and equalioze things

Let us know how it works. It may be noisy with no cap, so thats why you vary the size of a hole in it, to allow just enough air, but not get that toilet sucking noise
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:42 PM
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I suspect you are not priming at all, I don't care how you force water in the bubbles have the capacity to remain in the top of the U, drill and tap and install a john guest fitting in the first u tube, fill as normal then draw the remaining air out of the top of the U then submerse the JG tube below the surface of the water and you should be good to go, the principle on this system is sound.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:57 PM
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ok well i tried with out the cap and nothing drained out at all.
and yes i am priming it,im puting the garden hose in the pipe. check out the video i posted. i also moved the t joint down so it was lower than the water intake and that did nothing.
do you think it might be because the pipe isnt glued together? and its drawing in air at each fitting? there are just so many variables unvolved in this lol and ive never made one before so i dont know how to trouble shot the problem..
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_the_nucks_fan View Post
and yes i am priming it,im puting the garden hose in the pipe. .
Please believe me, this is not priming it, you may think it is but it isn't,
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:30 PM
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ok so then how do you prime it? oh might primer lol
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:39 PM
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OK, Thats a good method of priming. They are using a vacuum pump to remove all the air, but there is a check valve in the line so no air can flow back into the system there.

BUT, what he had there still will drain down untill the inlet becomes uncovered. It will not restart after that.

Try what I said with getting the siphon going with cap installed on your T. Then after 15 seconds, remove cap.

And I just remembered, If you put another T in where I drew, your going to have to plug both the inlet and the outlet to the sump in order to prime it. Might be just better to do the remove cap method. Priming and making sure there is no air in the line will be difficult
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Umm, a tank or 5

Last edited by banditpowdercoat; 03-08-2010 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:51 PM
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Man this getting difficult lol. I thought this was going to be easy. This just seems to be getting harder and harder by every min. So I don't know what I'm going to do.
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_the_nucks_fan View Post
ok so then how do you prime it? oh might primer lol
You have to draw the air out of the highest point.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:57 PM
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Ya Paul, your right, with a vent hole, it may need a fill hole at the "over the tank" section. When he filled it in the video, with no hole, it got a full suction, and because there was no vent to break suction when tank got to level, it continued to siphon untill the inlet got uncovered and broke the siphon that way.

Steve, it may not start with the cap removed like I suggested because there will not be water in the over the tank bend to start with. This needs to be full and no air in it in order to create the siphon from the tank. Then, the air inlet at the T, that makes it so the siphon will stop, when tank reaches that level, but the over the tank pipe remains full of water

I hope I'm not confusing you, I can see it clearly in my head but seeing and describing are 2 different animals LOL
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:06 PM
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OK, With my awesome paint skills, I revised a couple changes.

And ya it won't start without the cap. If you filled it, put cap on, started siphon, let run a little to ensure all air out of the over the tank pipe, then pull cap off I bet it may work.
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Umm, a tank or 5

Last edited by banditpowdercoat; 10-18-2011 at 05:04 AM.
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