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#2
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![]() the same thing happened to both of my Ushio bulbs, no biggie. This doesn't affect their operation/performance.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#3
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![]() No such thing as a SE Phoenix bulb (as far as I know).
I find that if I push the bulb in very slow & carefully, not too bad. Try to rush & you're gonna break that ceramic part. As others mentioned, doesn't seem to affect performance. Anthony
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If you see it, can take care of it, better get it or put it on hold. Otherwise, it'll be gone & you'll regret it! |
#4
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![]() Last time I changed my bulbs I tried a tiny dab of electric grease, makes installling DE bulbs problem free.
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#5
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![]() I just bought a SE Phoenix 250w 14k bulb from OA. Still burning in. Bluer than the SE 250w 14k Aquaconnect so far.
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#7
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![]() I am running it on an electronic ballast. I found this online though.
Phoenix 250 Watt 14,000K (Single Ended) Features and Benefits: - 14,000 Kelvin Color Temperature (Crisp White Light/Blue Tint) - The Best Combination of Color and PAR - Excellent With or Without Actinic Supplementation - Operate on a HQI Metal Halide Ballast, Pulse-Start Ballast or Electronic Ballast |
#8
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![]() I though HQI was a DE variant?
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |