![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]() could have a drain on skimmer cup with a hose to an overflow bucket.Have the shut off sensor in that.No need for wire disconnects just a small union for your hose to overflow
thats if you dont wanna deal with them wires anymore |
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() some float switches have an adjust ment for the range. a good picture of the switch would help.
Steve
__________________
![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I rather doubt that where the float switch actuates has anything to do with your problem. Bottom line is, it does actuate so your pump should turn ON/OFF accordingly. Could be a bad crimp or connection as you suspect after having worked on the wiring. Get yourself a cheap multimeter and you should be able to troubleshoot the wiring to find out where the problem is. Pretty difficult to troubleshoot something like this online without seeing exactly how the thing is wired up.
And Ya Dude's advice about a drain and collection container is pretty good. That's what I use. Also, not sure here, but if you're not using a relay and low voltage (12 VDC) switching to wire this up, you should. Switching 110 VAC through a float switch can be hazardous. I suspect you're ok, since you mentioned using a cell phone charger power supply to do some testing already.
__________________
Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Did you take the actual float off the float switch? In which case you likely put it back on the wrong way. If not get a new float switch, they're like $2.
|
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Ok here's what I have:
When I said "cutting down the reed" I was referring to the black tube that extends the wires down to the float switch in the cup. ![]()
__________________
SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" |
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Ya everything looks ok, like said earlier, make sure float os opn right and ya double check all connections.
__________________
Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() When you cut the reed or moved the switch did you take the float drum off the stick? My guess is still that the floating drum is upside down.
|
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() After seeing the photo and re-reading your original post, I can only assume that you are switching 110VAC directly with that little float switch. Not a good idea. I would rethink/redesign the whole shebang using a low voltage switching circuit through a relay.
What's in the yellow box besides the receptacles and a fuse?
__________________
Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#9
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
Steve
__________________
![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#10
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
Quote:
So thanks guys! You were right but about 30 minutes too late. ![]() Quote:
__________________
SPS Dedicated 24x24x20 Trimless Tank | 20 g Sump | Bubbble King Mini 160 Protein Skimmer w/ Avast Swabbie | NP Biopellets in TLF Phosban Reactor | ATI Sunpower 6 x 24W T5HO Fixture | EcoTech Vortech MP20 | Modified Tunze Nanostream 6025 | Eheim 1260 Return Pump | GHL Profilux Standalone Doser dosing B-Ionic | Steel Frame Epoxy Coated Stand with Maple Panels embedded with Neodymium Magnets "Mens sana in corpore sano" |