When you get bored......

[lastlight]

exactly. I was going to make a cover for mine actually but got lazy!

And I know you're bevelling and polishing all your glass. My sexy sense is tingling.

[Vancouver Reefer]

But of course!!!! If its rimless its got to be sexy!!!

I got my inspiration from this guy:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1288059



Oh and i forgot...Starfire glass of course!!!!

[Vancouver Reefer]

Software just blows me away with what it can do now-a-days!!!











Enjoy!!


VR

[Froggie]

A few suggestions that come to mind,

1) Add a valve to the pump suction piping upstream of the union. Otherwise when you pull the pump for maintenance all of the water from the center (feed) chamber and piping will drain out.

2) Move the drain line closest to the bubble trap to the right so it's beside the other drain line. You're limiting your choice of skimmers should you wish to upgrade by having to fit it between those lines.

3) Replace the 90° elbow on the pump discharge with a 45°. You've gone through the effort of putting them everywhere else. Might as well do it where it can make a difference (negligible as it may be).

4) Lower the shelf the pump is on, assuming this is to scale it looks tight. Why make maintenance even less enjoyable? Downside is the additional head loss.

5) As a general comment; I think you're going to find it a real pain to balance the flow in your manifold with that much static head. It'll be fiddly.

6) I'd look for alternatives to the SCWD. I ran one myself for a time and found significant head loss and on one occasion had it stop alternating.

7) M'thinks you may find yourself with too little flow. Especially if you're keeping SPS and the like. This is based on the elevation difference and that (assuming it's all drawn to scale) because you're using a SCWD the largest that pump discharge line can be is 1" as that's the biggest inlet size they offer.

8) The way you have your discharge line crossing your drain lines you won't be able to push your sump stand right up against the wall. Not sure if you consider having a gap behind it a pain or not.

9) Double check your sump freeboard against the volume of water that will be in the drain and discharge lines in the case of a power failure. Keep in mind that as designed the water level in the tank will drop to the invert (bottom) of the lines coming from the SCWD. (Then add a bit for safety)

10) Consider that if you want to install an automatic top off unit the float sensor needs to be mounted in the pump feed (middle) chamber.

That's all off the top of my head. I'll followup if I think of any extras...

[Vancouver Reefer]

Hi Froggie,

When i do the build i will make sure the drain lines are closer so i can use a sock if needed.

I like the idea of the valve for shutting off the centre chamber is a good i dea and one i forgot. Most of this is not to scale. it was just done as more of an idea to put down on paper as a starting point.

I will use a 45 on the pump output, i just couldnt fit in the angle after drawing all the pump etc. Lazy i know lol.

The SQWD might be changed as i hear alot of people are not liking the reliablilty of them and the head loss and flow will be looked at closely once i get to see exactly where this will be installed.

As for the freespace, that will be closely designed in as it will be a major design point on any aquarium.

The top off is already incorporated into Aquatroller