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#1
11-18-2009, 12:44 PM
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Do you have stray current in the tank?
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#2
11-18-2009, 02:38 PM
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Hi Ron, sayin g water peramiters are normal tells us nothing, can you list them for me? also Browing of SPS is an increase in symbiotic algae which usaly means the lighting is low so the coral needs more lighting. as you increase you light the coral will expell algae and get more color.
how deep is the tank and how far are the sps from the surface? I don't agree with the "corals need fish poop" thing as I had a very low fish load tank (3 in a 90) and a nutrent starved system with extream skimming and my colors were increadable, but every tank has slight differances. Steve
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 *everything said above is just my opinion, and may or may not reflect the views of this BBS, its Operators, and its Members. If cornered on any “opinion” I post I will totally deny having ever said this in a Court of Law…Unless I am the right one*Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive.
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#3
11-18-2009, 06:22 PM
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From what you've posted it doesn't look to be either a lighting, or nutrient issue. 8 T5 bulbs are a ton of light over a 75 no matter what the bulb combination, you could grow SPS at the top of your tank with half that many bulbs.
If your test results are showing 0 for nitrates and phosphates, and you have no nuisance algae, likely high nutrients aren't the issue. Also if you're pulling out skimmate you likely have enough nutrient to grow corals. Probably it's something you haven't posted yet. What is your water change regimen? (did I miss this) Any corals in your tank known for chemical warfare? (leathers?) Are you corals brown or more of a faded tan color? Brown is caused by high nutrients/low light. Corals tend to go tan and loose color when they are stressed, such as by contaminates in the water, unstable parameters, etc. One thing I've thought of is the possibility of chemicals being excreted, or trace elements being used up by a large mass of macro-algae in a small system. Just my $0.02 Rob
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#4
11-18-2009, 06:41 PM
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I think you also have to accept that some corals just simply shock easily from having been established and was used to one system (aquarium), and then all of a sudden being shoved into a new one. It can take them a very very long time to regain their former glory. Some may never achieve this and some will colour morph into something different. It is not necessarily a matter of bad parameters, but rather different parameters and conditions from what they previous were used to. Take your red coral turning pinkish for example. It is virtually impossible to reproduce ALL the parameters and conditions of their previous tank. Some corals can adapt quickly and easily, some (or perhaps most) do not.
I have a coral right now that was once red, then browned a little, now has coloured up with half of it being blue! my 2 cents. K. Last edited by kien; 11-18-2009 at 06:43 PM.
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#5
11-18-2009, 07:37 PM
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I'm actually intrigued by the stray voltage idea. I did a quick test using my multimeter and it looks like I have 0.6 to 0.7 volts running through the tank. I tried the same test with my pico and read 0 volts. The zoas I moved from the 75 gallon to the pico perked up very quickly. So would 0.7 volts be enough to cause a problem?
Its pretty much just the sps and zoas suffering. The LPS and other soft corals seem to be doing well. The maze brain has about doubled in size in the last few 4 or 5 months. The pulsing xenia are growing and pulsing. Chalices are growing slowly, cyphastrea is growing. So the puzzlement is in what could be causing problems for zoas and SPS but not so much for the other inverts and fish. It does seem to be more that the corals are losing colour and going tan rather then dark brown. Water changes are about 9 to 10 gallons every week to 10 days. I do have two small leathers so I don't know if that could also be a problem in the larger tank. If so they could go. I'll try to post pictures and dig up my last test results later on.
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#6
11-18-2009, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
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#7
11-18-2009, 10:26 PM
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Looks like 0.4 to 0.5 volts from the heater and maybe 0.2 volts from my return pump. The pump could be putting out some inductive voltage due to the proximity of the motor to water. The heater is obviously leaking current somewhere. Looks like I'm picking up a new heater tomorrow and maybe a grounding probe for the sump too.
As for test results, on Nov 8th I had this: pH 8.4 PO4, NH4, NO3, NO2 all zero KH 7
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