Acrylic Work

[RCFA]

Hmm I may just have to give it a try. I need to fit a skimmer and the divider is in the way. I'll try to dremel route and see how it goes.
Thanks

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

you have to find out also if the devider is acting as a brace for the sump walls, if it is you don't want to remove it.

what I recomend is to get a dremmel with a little mini two fluted router bit (I have seen them at home depot with carbon cutting edges) then use it to rout the devider out. you won't be able to get right up against the outside for a flush finnish, but if you are real carfull and get close you could use a little file or scraper, and sand paper and take the stub down. either way a long a tedious job.

depending on what you end goal is it might be faster just to get it as close as you can and leave it.

Steve

[sphelps]

Depending on how the baffle was welded in place it may be possible to break the seam. Apply a strong bending moment to the joint and while the force is still applied heat the the seam with a torch or heat gun. Try and add the heat slowly so it doesn't burn the plastic. I've done this before and it has worked but does depend on how the sump was built. When I built sumps I applied pressure to the outside seals after welding but not the inside seals (baffles) so this method would work for inside seams but not likely as well for outside seams.

[RCFA]

Interesting...Maybe I'll try that first.

Originally Posted by sphelps

Depending on how the baffle was welded in place it may be possible to break the seam. Apply a strong bending moment to the joint and while the force is still applied heat the the seam with a torch or heat gun. Try and add the heat slowly so it doesn't burn the plastic. I've done this before and it has worked but does depend on how the sump was built. When I built sumps I applied pressure to the outside seals after welding but not the inside seals (baffles) so this method would work for inside seams but not likely as well for outside seams.