Christy's 180 build - Page 8

apexi · #71 11-12-2009, 06:14 PM

Doing a 180 inwall is like having a car parked in your house longterm. There are may structural considerations that need to be taken into account. I consulted couple structural engineers when I was building mine due to the potential longer term impacts and also it being a part of a new house build.

For your tank stand, I would recommend that you double up on the posts and use some cross bracing just to be extra solid. It doesn't take much extra work to do, and when you're done the stand will be totally rock solid; an important consideration especially for any kind of inwall tank build. Since you're making the tank a part of the house, you want to make sure the stand is totally solid with vertical loads and resists any kind of potential lateral movement, such as what would occur in an earthquake.

If the tank is on the main floor (not basement), than you definitely want to take a look underneath to make sure there is proper structural support to prevent your floors from slowly sagging (has happened to people).

Best of luck!

PoonTang · #72 11-12-2009, 09:44 PM

Christy. Just make sure that when you do your plumbing you try to plan for the future. Adding a few blanked off T's to the drain and return wont cost you much and if you ever decide to add anything in the future (fuge etc) it will save alot of time. Dont forget a union in your drain system also.

christyf5 · #73 11-12-2009, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PoonTang

Christy. Just make sure that when you do your plumbing you try to plan for the future. Adding a few blanked off T's to the drain and return wont cost you much and if you ever decide to add anything in the future (fuge etc) it will save alot of time. Dont forget a union in your drain system also.

Good idea, thanks for the tip about the T's!! As for the union in the drain, why and where to put it??

Lance · #74 11-12-2009, 10:22 PM

Christy, if you put a gate valve on the return line and the drain line you will have complete control of the flow. Also makes it easy for water changes, etc.

christyf5 · #75 11-12-2009, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lance

Christy, if you put a gate valve on the return line and the drain line you will have complete control of the flow. Also makes it easy for water changes, etc.

Of course!! LOL, I had them on a list of plumbing parts I made ages ago. Looking at them this morning I was wondering why I had them on there. Thanks!

PoonTang · #76 11-12-2009, 11:23 PM

Put a union on the drain just below the tank incase you ever need to take it apart for cleaning or if you need to pull your sump or replace your tank etc. Have a look at the plumbing photo in my build thread.

fishytime · #77 11-13-2009, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PoonTang

Put a union on the drain just below the tank incase you ever need to take it apart for cleaning or if you need to pull your sump or replace your tank etc. Have a look at the plumbing photo in my build thread.

or you could just go with flex....like I did

lastlight · #78 11-13-2009, 01:53 AM

Black flex is the runner-up-sexy to grey sch 80. I condone the use of both.

christyf5 · #79 11-13-2009, 01:56 AM

There will be no sexy plumbing on this tank build. Don't have the resources for it.

lastlight · #80 11-13-2009, 02:15 AM

Oh yeah you want to have water in the tank in LESS than 1.5 years. I always overlook that =)