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#1
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![]() Wow.. Matts gonna get sum tonight!
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#2
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![]() So I've been working on this for the last half hour. Somehow I thought the plumbing would be more complex and I needed to ask you guys your opinions. Turns out its pretty simple but I'm posting my fantastic art anyways.
Yeah MS Paint! ![]() ![]()
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#3
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![]() Ya it's fairly straight forward. You could be like me and over complicate it to the point of ridiculousness, but that usually doesn't work well
![]() Do you need all 3600GPH from the Dart? If not you could build a manifold like CProwler to drive Phosban reactors, CA Reactors, Skimmer or what ever |
#4
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![]() Quote:
Well I don't have 17 holes in my tank, just the one ![]() No I don't need all the gph from the dart, I just figured what with the 20km of pipe from the dart to the tank I wouldn't end up with much gph left. That manifold is pretty sweet actually. However, I like everything to run on individual pumps, I use more electricity and put more heat into the tank that way. Besides, frankly that thing looks too complex for me ![]()
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#5
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![]() Doing a 180 inwall is like having a car parked in your house longterm. There are may structural considerations that need to be taken into account. I consulted couple structural engineers when I was building mine due to the potential longer term impacts and also it being a part of a new house build.
For your tank stand, I would recommend that you double up on the posts and use some cross bracing just to be extra solid. It doesn't take much extra work to do, and when you're done the stand will be totally rock solid; an important consideration especially for any kind of inwall tank build. Since you're making the tank a part of the house, you want to make sure the stand is totally solid with vertical loads and resists any kind of potential lateral movement, such as what would occur in an earthquake. If the tank is on the main floor (not basement), than you definitely want to take a look underneath to make sure there is proper structural support to prevent your floors from slowly sagging (has happened to people). Best of luck! ![]() |
#6
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![]() Christy. Just make sure that when you do your plumbing you try to plan for the future. Adding a few blanked off T's to the drain and return wont cost you much and if you ever decide to add anything in the future (fuge etc) it will save alot of time. Dont forget a union in your drain system also.
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#7
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![]() Quote:
Good idea, thanks for the tip about the T's!! As for the union in the drain, why and where to put it??
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#8
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![]() I would move the beefier union to the inlet side of the Dart. Plus I like how you have stepped up the pipe diameter from the sump to the pump inlet. Clever thinking!
You may wish to find a smaller Wavysea though. That thing is taking up WAY too much space in your display!
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |