Filter Sock Q

[mr.wilson]

Tanks with good flow get a lot more free-floating detritus and protein skimmers aren't enough to address the matter. Mechanical filtration is a must in my opinion. It's the most effective and cheapest method of exporting detritus that would otherwise breakdown into nutrients like phosphate and nitrogen.

If you were to use filter socks you need to allow a method of bypass because they clog daily in most cases. I don't like to use them, but if I do I use the fuzzy felt/polyester ones rather than the fine polyester mesh ones. The fuzzy ones take a few days to clog once they develop biofilms. The mesh ones tend to physically grind the trapped detritus until it becomes dissolved organic matter rather than particulate.

I find polyester fiberfill to be wasteful, so open pore sponges are my first choice. They only need weekly cleaning, but it helps if you squeeze them out more often. You could add a tray to your sump, or try to implement them in the overflow closer to the source. Sponges at the end of your drain line get pressurized water so splashing, salt creep, bubble production, and bypass can occur. Sponges in the overflow get volume, but less pressure. They can help keep critters out of the overflow, keep drain noise down, offer easy access for rinsing or replacement, and remove detritus closer to the source. It is also likely that they can offer viable sites for dentrifying bacteria.

For aquariums over 150 gallons I use pleated cartridge mechanical filters like OceanClear and Pentair. These can be used with a built-in UV sterilizer or chemical media (polyfilters, carbon, iron-based phosphate remover and other ion exchange resins). The down side is more work to clean the cartridges than a quick sponge exchange or rinse, but they can remove 25 micron particles and even down to 1 micron if you use diatom powder. This offers removal of ich parasites as well as free floating algae spores and phytoplankton.