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#1
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![]() Coral is 100% removed from any substrate it might be attached to (rocks, plugs etc). Visual inspection for unwanted critters, then soaked 15 minutes in iodine/interceptor/dip/in my tank water to further remove anything unwanted. It goes from there directly into the system. I don't do any kind of acclimating because the dip is composed of my tank water.
As for fish, I generally float the bag to match temperature...then begin to extract water from the bag and replace it with tank water using a turkey baster. If the fish isn't showing any odd behaviour or reaction to my tank water, it usually goes into the system within an hour or so. I already have ich...so that isn't a concern.
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400 gal reef. Established April, 2007. 3 Sequence Dart, RM12-4 skimmer, 2 x OM4Ways, Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown (pair), Blonde Naso Tang, Vlamingi Tang, Foxface Rabbit, Unicorn Tang, 2 Pakistani Butterflies and a few coral gobies My Tank: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436 |
#2
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![]() I always float for 15 mins fish/corals then I put everything in a bucket in their bags.
I then add a cup of water wait 10 mins and a cup more for an hour when the bag gets to full I dump about half out. I do the same for inverts but I use alot less water or split the cup of water amongst all the inverts, if I have ordered alot. I then put fish only into a Q.T. tank for a month maybe, depends how and where the fish have come from. |
#3
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![]() This is what I do personally...not what I recommend at the store
![]() corals get temperature acclimated, dipped and visually inspected fish get temperature acclimated and released snails and hermits get temperature acclimated and released clams, shrimp and other more sensitive inverts get dripped.
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#4
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![]() Quote:
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#5
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![]() All inverts and corals except shrimp are floated for 10-15 min and then placed into the tank. Shrimp are drip acclimated
Fish are quarantined for at 6 weeks but I just lift them out of the bag with my hand and place in the quarantine tank...no acclimating |
#6
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![]() Quote:
Pretty much the same here, except I add a little tank water to bag water and use Reefchem Sea Dip for corals.
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225g reef |
#7
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![]() What is in Reefchem sea dip for corals and what does it protect against?
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#8
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![]() Quote:
Ha Ha. I can't type. ![]()
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225g reef |
#9
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![]() For both fish and corals I am VERY sure that not a drop of bag water will make it into my tank. The corals are always rinsed with tank water, and fish are dripped so they get a rinse off too.
After a recent brush with Red Bugs on an Acro frag I have changed my procedure. All frags get floated in the tank for 30-45 mins for temperature. Then I use the bag water in a bowl, add the dip chemicals, dip the coral. Then I use a turkey baster, and baster the show with tank water after the dip to remove the TMCC. Then I place the coral in the tank in an area of low flow and low light, and slowly move the coral to where I want it. There is no acclimation to the water, just the temperature. All Acros - Tropic Marin Coral Cure (as per label) and Interceptor dip for 15-20 mins. All other SPS - TMCC as above. Although I have found Montis to be sensitive to the TMCC, so they only get dipped for about 5-10 mins. LPS - I find to be sensitive to TMCC, so they get dipped only for a few swooshes, so they are in there for less than 1 minute, but still at full dosage. Fish get a different approach. All are inspected. All fish are floated for 20-30 mins to warm up the bags (if needed) and drip acclimated for 1-2 hours into either the quarantine tank or the display tank. Some species won't do well in QT, so they are never put there no matter how bad they look. If fish are in the QT they will either be watched or medicated depending on what's going on. In both cases (display or QT), once the fish are done dripping they will be floated in the tank again for 30 mins to match the temp since the temp in the drip container usually falls by a few degrees. Inverts get the same treatment as fish except they never go into QT, and they are dripped for 2-4 hours depending on how sensitive they are. Ime, I have come to the conclusion that most clownfish have "something". So all clowns get QTed with PraziPro treatment for a week as per the label. I have been looking to find a reliable dip for fish mainly for parasites including internal ones, but I haven't been able to find much. So my search continues. Any suspect fish will get QT with a week's PraziPro treatment as per the label. My drip procedure for both corals and fish is to use the smallest container needed, and pour only enough bag water in the container to cover the specimen. Drip 2 drops per second (inverts are 1 drip per second). Let it drip until the water volume has doubled or close to, then pour off the excess water until the specimen is just covered again. Do that 2-4 times. Inverts take twice as long because the drip rate is half. To drip I use airline tubing and a matching ball valve (TLF makes them). Last edited by Myka; 10-17-2009 at 07:32 PM. |
#10
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![]() What is the concentration and duration of the Interceptor/iodine dip? I have access to betadine and interceptor but am uncertain how to use them safely and effectively. Thx
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