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#61
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The double switch ATO has a secondary float switch that turns off your pump if it triggers. Here's how the whole contraption works.. 1. First float switch detects the drop in water level -> switches on your pump 2. Pump pumps water from reservoir into your sump. 3. Float switch detects that water has return to a good level -> switches off your pump 4.... if your first float switch gets stuck, it won't register the rise in water so your pump will just keep pumping in water from your reservoir.. but switch #2 comes to the rescue. 5. If the water raises to the level of switch #2 (somewhere higher in the sump), then it activates and turns OFF your pump. I don't see why you couldn't use your bilge pump. It doesn't have to be that powerful though. I use a wee little $10 no name brand pump that is submersed in my fresh water reservoir. One note of caution when setting this up: Be sure to have the outlet from your top off nozzle higher than the top of the reservoir level, otherwise you will create a siphon and even when the pump is turned OFF water will continue siphon out of your reservoir! K. |
#62
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K. |
#63
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![]() I have loc line out of water and no issues. I also use it on my Milling machine for coolant (its true purpose) no leak issues
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |
#64
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![]() Hmmm, I think I figured out the micro bubble problem. I'll have to work on it. Turns out there is a spot where water is falling from a baffle into my return chamber from a high-ish spot and is creating bubbles that are getting sucked into the return. I'll get it fixed soon enough.
So I got another question lol. Ok so keep in mind this is my first ever start from scratch tank, including my fresh water days. Ive always had some kind of seeded bacteria (such as in a filter or whatever) for FW, so Ive never gone through a brand new cycle really. Only small ones when I add stuff to the tank. So yesterday I put in my live rock. You can see what kind of live rock I have here. I only put in LR 'B' and 'C' from that list. LR 'A' is curing for several weeks Ive decided. Soooo, I feel like I have good LR that has been well preserved and doesnt have much die off because today I took a reading for the first time (roughly 24 hrs after putting the LR in my tanK) and right now my ammonia level is zero and my nitrite level is zero as well. Nitrate is miniscule as well at between 5-10 ppm. So obviously I have some denitrifying bacteria on my LR already. So my question is, do I have a bigger release of nutrients on the way that will cause a big cycle? I mean I thought I'd be experiencing it in my test levels by now. Am I foolish to be "dreaming" that I can add my CUC two days after adding my LR to a brand new system? |
#65
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![]() Ok so if my params read good again today I might be making a trip to the fish store for some of my cleanup crew. Probably start off small, get maybe 2 crabs, 4 snails and a couple star fish or something.
So Ive been running just my centre MH on my coralife pro for a couple reasons. The biggest being the stupid legs didnt work very well and so the stand is resting on top of the tank on some 2x4's and so I didnt want any lights heating up the wood cause itd make put burn marks on the light or I dunno. Just not a good idea... So today I go to turn on the ballast that Im using to power the middle MH and the light comes on, is warming up and then flickers and turns off. Now I turn it on and it just glows real dim. Is it burnt out? Was suppose to be a brand new bulb. Ive never had a light burn out on my aquarium, especially a MH so I dont know really if its another problem? Help? I used the same ballast to turn on a diff light and it worked, so problem seems to be the bulb or connection in there or something. |
#66
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Did you install the bulbs yourself or did they come pre installed in your fixture? Those HQIs are sensitive and you can not hold the middle part with your bare oily fingers or you will ruin them. You have to handle just the end tips or better yet wear gloves like those white ones. If they did come pre installed then they are probably just defective or possibly loose? Try openning the fixture, taking the bulb out and re-seating it. They can potentially come loose during transport. Again don't forget to wear gloves!! My last light fixture (currents USA) had the T5s fail on me after a week and I had to replace them with higher quality T5s. I am assuming the ballasts you are using are the coralife ones that come with the fixture and not some other third party ballast? Some ballast and light combinations don't work too well together. |
#67
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![]() Hmmm, thanks Kien.
I ended up getting two brittle stars. They seem to be doing ok. My params look like my tank is pretty established. I'll keep a close eye on them and my params. Quick question. What nitrate level do you usually do your water changes at? In the FW world it was good to keep it below 40 ppm but is it any different in SW? Im going to do my first water change here pretty quick, prob do like 25G maybe more, but like I said my numbers are pretty good, so only nitrate to remove, no ammonia or nitrite or anything, there was literally no cycle cause of good cured rock. This of course could change with the bit of livestock I added: 2x Nassarius Snales 2x Brittle Stars 4x Blue Legged Hermits 2x Peppermint Shrimp Thoughts? Also, I got an ID thread going in the reef section with what I think is a baby tiger tail cucumber, but not sure if some of you guys wanna take a look at the description. |
#68
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![]() For me water changes are not triggered by nitrate levels. In fact, I rarely ever test for Nitrates anymore. I just do water changes every week (if I'm not busy) or 2 weeks at a minimum. Seems to be a good interval for me. Unless you have nitrate sensitive critters in your tank, you can usually get away with high (ish) nitrate levels. Some critters like clams actually feed off of nitrates.
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#69
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![]() So what percentage of your entire system water do you change? I have about 185G in my entire system (including the sump)
Is it the same as FW and change about 10-15% every week or 20-25% every two weeks? |
#70
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![]() Alright so I made more progress today. This thing is really coming along. I seriously think its like 3 weeks ahead of where I thought it'd be right now.
We hung the light from the roof and did a pretty good job if I must say so. Before they were just on some wood blocks raised up a bit off the tank. I still need to get the electrical run so the whole system I'd say is only running at like 70% max power right now. Still no skimmer, no full spectrum of lights and no refugium yet but everything else is flying. Levels are remaining solid after adding the cleanup crew and waiting three days. So we added two little clowns today. First fish in the tank and boy is it a treat to have them. So playful. Im gonna watch the levels and do a 25% water change sometime this week. We'll probably add a blue tang next weekend and some more snails and start aquascaping shortly after. Right now priorities are on getting the skimmer water tight and also getting our electrical done so we can fire up the whole light. After that we'll work at getting chaeto and what not for the 'fuge. So pumped! ![]() |