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#1
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![]() Hey guys, so now that my tank is full, I woke up to a slightly lower water line in my return pump chamber. This was expected but kind of forgotten about until this morning.
Basically I want to put together an ATO system and what I have on hand so far is a power fist Bilge Pump that does 200 GPH. So Im wondering how I can rig this thing up to pump in water as the water line goes down? Im thinking I'd be needing to incorporate some kind of infrared thing or something? Or a ball valve? But that wouldnt really work cause the pump would keep going. What kind of things are all you doing? |
#2
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![]() You have a lot of options for ATO. You can buy rigs like the Tunze ATO which a lot of stores sell. You can rig up a float valve (like the kent float valve) to refill your sump from an RO/DI unit. You can MacGiyver a float switch like this, or you can just buy a float switch ATO system like this.
I use the last one from autotopoff.com. I tried very hard to find float switches in the city but was not able to. K. |
#3
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![]() Wow, thanks Kien. I think that the autotopoff.com one looks like a winner to me. Not sure if you can answer a couple more q's?
Whats the difference between a single switch ATO and double switch? Does this ATO system come with a pump or just a switch that will turn a pump on and off? Would I need to use this in conjunction with my bilge pump? |
#4
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![]() Hey guys, I got another problem that is puzzling me. I have tiny micro bubbles being injected into my tank from my four returns every two minutes or so. I have no idea how any air is getting into my return line. My sump also has no bubbles whatsoever in it, so its not occuring here and the pump is not sucking in bits of air with water.
Any idea why its still going? I thought perhaps itd stop after a while of running, but its been like 48 hours. It cant be just loose air bubbles still in the lines. Anyone else have this and maybe know what I could look at? |
#5
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![]() Are your pumps submersible or external? If they're external and there's no possible way your pump can access air, you may have a leak on the suction line.
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Calvin --- Planning a 29 gallon mixed reef... |
#6
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![]() Pump is submersible. There could only be one place where a leak might be and thatd be my union and I just tightened it and dont think thats the spot but perhaps I'll check again or tighten more.
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#7
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![]() Quote:
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#8
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![]() Quote:
K. |
#9
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![]() I have loc line out of water and no issues. I also use it on my Milling machine for coolant (its true purpose) no leak issues
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |
#10
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![]() Hmmm, I think I figured out the micro bubble problem. I'll have to work on it. Turns out there is a spot where water is falling from a baffle into my return chamber from a high-ish spot and is creating bubbles that are getting sucked into the return. I'll get it fixed soon enough.
So I got another question lol. Ok so keep in mind this is my first ever start from scratch tank, including my fresh water days. Ive always had some kind of seeded bacteria (such as in a filter or whatever) for FW, so Ive never gone through a brand new cycle really. Only small ones when I add stuff to the tank. So yesterday I put in my live rock. You can see what kind of live rock I have here. I only put in LR 'B' and 'C' from that list. LR 'A' is curing for several weeks Ive decided. Soooo, I feel like I have good LR that has been well preserved and doesnt have much die off because today I took a reading for the first time (roughly 24 hrs after putting the LR in my tanK) and right now my ammonia level is zero and my nitrite level is zero as well. Nitrate is miniscule as well at between 5-10 ppm. So obviously I have some denitrifying bacteria on my LR already. So my question is, do I have a bigger release of nutrients on the way that will cause a big cycle? I mean I thought I'd be experiencing it in my test levels by now. Am I foolish to be "dreaming" that I can add my CUC two days after adding my LR to a brand new system? |