I am so frustrated!!

[wickedfrags]

Sorry, but IMO - try not to get overwhelmed (specifically by the post above). SPS = stability promotes success.

Assuming you have not dosed any supplements or other things which could have drastically altered your levels (alk, ca, mg), I would work at dialing in that calcium reactor to maintain a DKH of 3.5 (+/- 0.5), once you have it set (based on your current SPS load), memorize how you did it and leave it alone for a month or so. Check DKH every other day until stable. Chances are your tank improves after a water change because of the increase in DKH, again, JMO.

I have never checked Potassium, have never experienced Ph issues, refugium issues, salt issues or ventilation issues. But that is just my system.

[Oceanic]

Originally Posted by wickedfrags.com

Sorry, but IMO - try not to get overwhelmed (specifically by the post above). SPS = stability promotes success.

Assuming you have not dosed any supplements or other things which could have drastically altered your levels (alk, ca, mg), I would work at dialing in that calcium reactor to maintain a DKH of 3.5 (+/- 0.5), once you have it set (based on your current SPS load), memorize how you did it and leave it alone for a month or so. Check DKH every other day until stable. Chances are your tank improves after a water change because of the increase in DKH, again, JMO.

I have never checked Potassium, have never experienced Ph issues, refugium issues, salt issues or ventilation issues. But that is just my system.

The questions asked are not meant to be overwhelming but instead are informative for those that are wanting to help find the solution. A fancy acronym will do nothing for you, stability is elementary and I think we can assume you already know that.

Things like the salt brand are important, Seachem is notorious for having a high borate content that tends to causes test kits to read on average 1.25 DKH higher than actuality! (especially when using Salifert test kits) The is especially true if water changes are often.

Because you are using Seachem salt you should be aiming for an Alk reading of 9.5 - 10 DKH thus resulting in a actual DKH closer to NSW or a little higher. Your tests that show about 6.5 may only be 5.25 DKH in actuallity!! (Not good!)

Knowing what you are dosing is also important, using ZEOvit or any other ULNS will result in "stripped" water over time, in other words, your system does not contain enough nutrients that the Corals need to thrive. Also when using these systems Potassium also gets low resulting in the need to supplement.

Ventilation is also important, a stuffy room with the windows closed can and will cause PH issues due the Co2 that builds up in the air.

Keep searching, an answer with stability as the advice will do you nothing, there is more to your problems that what has been assumed.

[marie]

It could also be something as simple as using air fresheners (bad idea, especially if you use one that kills bacteria as well... like febreeze) in the same room as the tank.

[wickedfrags]

Really - never heard that before. How does this occur?

Originally Posted by marie

It could also be something as simple as using air fresheners (bad idea, especially if you use one that kills bacteria as well... like febreeze) in the same room as the tank.

[wickedfrags]

Your right...

Originally Posted by Oceanic

The questions asked are not meant to be overwhelming but instead are informative for those that are wanting to help find the solution. A fancy acronym will do nothing for you, stability is elementary and I think we can assume you already know that.

Things like the salt brand are important, Seachem is notorious for having a high borate content that tends to causes test kits to read on average 1.25 DKH higher than actuality! (especially when using Salifert test kits) The is especially true if water changes are often.

Because you are using Seachem salt you should be aiming for an Alk reading of 9.5 - 10 DKH thus resulting in a actual DKH closer to NSW or a little higher. Your tests that show about 6.5 may only be 5.25 DKH in actuallity!! (Not good!)

Knowing what you are dosing is also important, using ZEOvit or any other ULNS will result in "stripped" water over time, in other words, your system does not contain enough nutrients that the Corals need to thrive. Also when using these systems Potassium also gets low resulting in the need to supplement.

Ventilation is also important, a stuffy room with the windows closed can and will cause PH issues due the Co2 that builds up in the air.

Keep searching, an answer with stability as the advice will do you nothing, there is more to your problems that what has been assumed.

[PoonTang]

You said you tank was ok for the first year then started to go south? Improves after a water change for a short while? Mabey look at the possibility that something has built up in your tank to toxic levels. Are you skimming enough, do you have enough LR, running phosban, what shape is your sand bed, running a Fuge? All valid questions that should be looked at also. Look also for things like stray voltage, some foreign metal object in the tank, something you started dosing. I find it odd that parameters that are slightly off would cause so much trouble. Especially if your levels were the same during the first year.

[seanoman]

Hey thanks everybody for your help so far.

Originally Posted by PoonTang

You said you tank was ok for the first year then started to go south? Improves after a water change for a short while? Mabey look at the possibility that something has built up in your tank to toxic levels. Are you skimming enough, do you have enough LR, running phosban, what shape is your sand bed, running a Fuge? All valid questions that should be looked at also. Look also for things like stray voltage, some foreign metal object in the tank, something you started dosing. I find it odd that parameters that are slightly off would cause so much trouble. Especially if your levels were the same during the first year.

As far as skimming, we have a BK300 external, which i believe should be more than enough. About 200 lbs of LR. ROWAPhos running in the other phosban reactor. We have a bare bottom tank and no fuge. I have also looked for stray voltage and other things in the tank. So far have seen nothing.

Marie, I have also heard of that happening, but I know that is not the case for us, because all the equipment is in its own fish room and we don't ever use any of that stuff in there.

Dave and Ian, I am dialing back my Calcium reactor as we speak, and I will be slowly dripping in some kalkwasser as well to try and slowly bring up the DKH.

Again, thanks so much for everyones quick posts it is greatly appreciated!!

[seanoman]

Oh, I forgot to mention, that none of this has affected any of the fish in the tank. They are all doing better than ever. They are all in great health.

[Sebae again]

Once you get your Mg up it will be easier to raise the alk and maintain it.

[Oceanic]

Originally Posted by seanoman

Hey thanks everybody for your help so far.



As far as skimming, we have a BK300 external, which i believe should be more than enough. About 200 lbs of LR. ROWAPhos running in the other phosban reactor. We have a bare bottom tank and no fuge. I have also looked for stray voltage and other things in the tank. So far have seen nothing.

Marie, I have also heard of that happening, but I know that is not the case for us, because all the equipment is in its own fish room and we don't ever use any of that stuff in there.

Dave and Ian, I am dialing back my Calcium reactor as we speak, and I will be slowly dripping in some kalkwasser as well to try and slowly bring up the DKH.

Again, thanks so much for everyones quick posts it is greatly appreciated!!

Slow is good when dealing with ALK!