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#1
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![]() Just a couple of additional thoughts regarding this diagram...
1) The primary drain line (the one with the ball/gate valve) is shown in this diagram to have a tall standpipe up inside the overflow box. That pipe isn't necessary. In fact, I don't think it is a good idea. Optimally, the water level in the overflow box operates at some point which is ABOVE the primary drain, yet BELOW the emergency drain. In this diagram these two drains are very close in height, providing little room to operate. Further, if there isn't enough water depth directly above the primary drain, then it tends to form a vortex and suck air down...which defeats the entire purpose of the design. 2) As I just mentioned, the diagram shows the water level at the level of the emergency overflow. That's OK, but the system works more quietly at a water level slightly below that. If you ever want to come by and look at a variety of Herbie overflows in operation, just let me know. In my refugium, I have a standpipe on the primary overflow. It is there for a very specific reason which I can demonstrate to you.
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400 gal reef. Established April, 2007. 3 Sequence Dart, RM12-4 skimmer, 2 x OM4Ways, Yellow Tang, Maroon Clown (pair), Blonde Naso Tang, Vlamingi Tang, Foxface Rabbit, Unicorn Tang, 2 Pakistani Butterflies and a few coral gobies My Tank: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28436 |
#2
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![]() There is a advantage to having a short standpipe on the primary in that though the Herbie method is silent, you can still get some noise from the water dropping into the overflow chamber.
This noise can be limited by lessening the drop (by raising the water level in the overflow chamber).
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my tank |
#3
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![]() Another small tip regarding drilling the tank. Masking tape is a good idea, but for extra insurance place something soft below the area you're drilling just in case the tape doesn't hold. Even a piece of cardboard will do, but something a little thicker will be better to catch the 'donut' hole.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#4
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![]() Hi, Thanks for all the great advice, im just trying to track down a local drill bit (trying to get around waiting for the shipping) Seems easy to find 1 1/2 inch bits and 2" bits but can not find a 1 3/4 inch that i need for a one inch bulkhead. When i track one down i will be sure to use all your advice. Thanks for all the replys! Do you think i could drill with a 1 1/2 inch bit and use a diamond coated dremel to make it fit a 1" bulkhead? Or is that to risky
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#5
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![]() I would drill the proper size hole. Did you try tomas skinner?
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#7
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![]() BRS has drill bits for 1 3/4".
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#8
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![]() Quote:
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#9
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![]() Ill wait, lol, was eagger to get a go on it this weekend, but ill hold off and order from that bulk reef suply.
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#10
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![]() Well yesterday the hole saws came, and this morning we drilled two holes on the back corner for the drain. We were going to drill two more holes for the return but it took a long time to drill the first two so we decided to stick with going over the top for the returns. Were pritty much going to go exactly as Marks diagram showes but will probably put in two returns? Havnt really decided. Right now im off to get some glass cut for the overflow, Getting more excited, thanks again for all the advice
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